16 November ’06 (2)

Continuing on from Blythe Intaglios, we headed back up towards Lake Havasu City.  After our stay at the state campground, we were heading down here to Ehrenberg, when we passed this beautiful spot to put the kayak into.  It would have been great to put in right then, but we thought we had better continue on to Ehrenberg.  Today we decided to go back that 65 miles and enjoy some “water” time.  We put in at the Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge which was made by the damming up the Colorado River, and in particular for this refuge, behind Parker Dam.  Not only was the weather perfect, the water like glass, the waterfowl absolutely beautiful, the grasses and the mountains were stunning.  The only negative was that we just didn’t have a whole day to enjoy this special place. 

16 November ‘06

Well, I have to “eat my words”… I said Ehrenberg didn’t have anything to offer other than being close to Quartzsite…well I was wrong.  Wednesday I was talking with our neighbor and he told us of this ancient site up in the hills to the north.  In 1931, a local pilot discovered 2 huge figures outstretched across the desert, on the terraces above the Colorado River.  The archaeologists called these figures “geoglyphs”.  After a 12 mile drive out California 95 from Blythe, we came to a dirt road that took us another ½ mile to the first design.  These “designs” are separated by 200 hundred yards from each other.  The first design is a man, 105.6 feet from head to tow.  With his arms outstretched we’re looking at 92 feet…now that is a “man”.  The other figure was “either a lion or a horse”, but the archaeologists just aren’t sure.  Amazing designs and also amazing that they are still here.  They were just made by scraping away the desert gravels or tramped into the desert pavement forming an indented image. 

Blythe Intaglios

14 November ‘06

Last Saturday we pulled into Ehrenberg, Arizona for a weeks stay.  A weeks stay in Ehrenberg???, yep, I’m not really sure why, but here we are.  The town made famous by the RV community, Quartzsite is just over 20 miles away, and then Blythe, California is across the river from us.  The river, which runs directly behind our coach, is the Colorado River and then, other than that, there just isn’t much except the fine weather.  When I hooked up the water filter last Saturday, I found that one of the hose attachments was cracked and leaked like crazy.  Then, I found a screw in one of the tires on the Tracker (toad).  Soooo, yesterday we traveled into Quartzsite to see what we could find to fill our needs.  Luckily we found a good deal on a water treatment system, but as far as the tire, it was fixed ok, but as we got onto the freeway I found that the balance of that fixed tire was way out.  Now we will have to make a return trip just to get the tire balanced…damn. 

Today we made the decision to register for the caravan trip leaving from Texas through 7 countries, and onto and through the Panama Canal and back.  We will be leaving the 7^th of January 2008 for 78 days…anyone want to join us???   Fact is, I met a couple today from Twisp (Chuck "The Cougar Research Guy" and Kathy Smith) and I’m working on them right now.  Well, we finally got our appointment in Yuma to get some warrentee work done.  Keep your fingers crossed that it wont take too long and that this will take care of our water leaking slide. 

10 November ‘06

Wednesday we said our goodbyes to Herman and Tony and then pulled out of the 49ers encampment heading back to Pahrump.  We had decided to go back there for a night to catch up on some laundry and then move on the next morning.  Thursday we passed through Las Vegas again (and got lost before we got through town) and headed onto Laughlin and Bullhead Az. (across the Colorado River from each other).  After getting the coach all set up in Bullhead, we headed into Laughlin for dinner and a “look see” at the casinos.  Dinner was enjoyed on a deck over looking the Colorado River and the gaming at a few casinos we found along the boardwalk…Finally, I came out $50+ dollars ahead for a change.  Today it was Lake Havasu City, the home of “The London Bridge”.  Our campground is out side of Lake Havasu in a state park  After setting up, we walked down to the lake for a look see, met a couple campers and then drove into Lake Havasu for a close-up of that “Bridge” from England. 

7 November ‘06

This morning  Herman and Tony joined us as we headed out for a day of “canyon-ing”…  After another evening of listening to the entertainment at the band stand (western, gospel, and bluegrass music), we were ready to go exploring.  Our destination for the day is 4 wheeling through 27 miles of one way, winding/twisting/ undulating /dirt/gravel, big rocks Talis Canyon.  It was recommended by the rangers that we don’t make the drive unless we have a “high clearance, 4 wheel drive vehicle” in better than good condition (does that fit our little Chevy Tracker???).  The weather couldn’t have been better (high 80’s to low 90’s) and with very few other cars on the drive.  About half way through we pulled off to the side and had our lunch.  Imagine how little we felt, the walls of this canyon climbing as high as 300 feet above us, and as close as 10 feet on each side of the car, it was humbling...  Overall our drive through the canyon took us about 4 hours so when we got back to our motor homes we were ready for a cool one and a chance to totally relax.  Seeing as how Herman and Tony have traveled to Holland many times over the years after they themselves first arrived, we had many tales to exchange.  We also had a chance to learn much more about their personal experiences during World War II, again a very sobering experience.  I have read many books, letters from the soldiers from all sides of the war, watched newsreels, and visited many war museums while traveling through Europe, and yet to hear their personal stories…let’s not have any more wars, please!!!      

6 November ‘06

After another night of being entertained at the stage and getting an early start, we headed out to see some more of the sights of Death Valley.  About 25 miles north of Furnace Creek is the other Visitor Center for Death Valley, Stovepipe Wells.  About ½ mile past the complex we turned left onto a dirt road.  Just over 2 miles later we arrived at Mosaic Canyon.  Mosaic Canyon is a very narrow canyon, were the walls are covered with polished rock, very much like marble of varying colors.  The best part of this valley is but ½ mile long and very narrow.  So narrow in fact you could touch both sides of the walls at the same time in some areas.  We also had to climb over some of the rock barriers in places, but then on the way back out of the canyon, we sat on our butts and slid down the polished rocks to the return path below.  Throughout our time here in Death Valley we have met individuals, couples, or families from all over Europe and here at Mosaic Canyon it was no different.  This family was from Budapest, Hungary and would travel through some of the national parks over the next 3 weeks.  Next it was off to see the “kilns”… My thoughts of Death Valley prior to arriving, would have the Valley running for miles from one mountain range to the other, totally flat, filled with sagebrush, sand, snakes, lizards, and absolutely no water and…HOT.  I would have been totally wrong.  In driving through Death Valley you are either gaining altitude or losing altitude.  We were as high as 5400 feet to as low as 200 feet below sea level.  Well back to the Charcoal Kilns…They only date back to 1877 but look like remnants of an ancient civilization.  The kilns (10) are about 30 feet high and 30 feet in diameter and shaped like a beehive with a small door at the bottom and a vent at the top.   They were built to produce charcoal from the surrounding pinon pine forest for the Modoc Mine smelter 25 miles away.  Unfortunately this whole project didn’t last more than a very few years…it turned out to be too expensive.  Now they are used as a perfect sounding chamber for those who want to set themselves in the center of one of them and sing with the most beautiful echo chamber you ever heard.    

5 November ‘06

Today’s Death Valley Days took us to “The Artist Drive”, Badwater, and Dante’s View.

Dante’s View gave us a spectacular view over the valley of the Badwater area and miles of salt flats.  Across the valley is the Panamint Mountains that tower above the floor below over 11,000 feet below.  Dante’s View altitude is just over 5000 feet and the ride up was beautiful.  It was a long gradual rise from the valley until we got to the last mile and then it was straight up with lots of turns and a very narrow paved road.  Once there the view below was as advertised…awesome.  Then it was back down to were we started, a left turn and out the valley following the salt flats.  The park has developed a boardwalk that took us out into the salt so that we could get that “up close” look at this massive salt lick.  There were areas of ponds where the water was about 2 feet deep with a salt floor and little salt “islands” coming up from the bottom.  There are also fish living there.  These little 1 inch long fish that have survived from centuries in this very heavy salt water...again amazing little creatures that live here.  Then it was off to The Artist Drive.  This drive took us to a 4 mile circular dirt road.  Leaving the salt flats behind, we headed towards the base of the mountain.  The road was like riding on a roller coaster, lots of mounds, twists, and curves and then we were into the area that gave this ride its name.  The lower mountain was full of color made up from the different chemicals and minerals found here.  Pink, purple, orange, yellow and red were but a few of the hues that were in front of us.  It was like some one had come through with a large sack of colors and spilled them all over the mountain. 

4 November ‘06

Death Valley became a National Monument in 1933 and a National Park in 1994.  We have been thinking about the possibility if it hadn’t become either one and become something like a wide open ATV course.  We’ve been able to hike some of the canyons that had been made by the awesome power of rushing floodwaters.  As they flowed they eroded and destroyed rock walls and as this was happening they created some of the most beautiful natural hiking areas we have ever been on.  Today we are off to hike the Golden Canyon.  This is a hike of about 2+ miles each way.  The whole area was at one time the bottom of a massive lake and now it is made up of large hills and mounds of a yellow/gold russet sand, mud, and rock.  There were lots of little trails that we could take from the main hike, but after following them for a distance we found they would just bring us back to the beginning.  A place called the Red Cathedral was at the end of our hike so after seeing that, having a bite and drink from our pack, we headed back for another great adventure.  The Natural Bridge of Death Valley.  After driving another one of those wonderful dirt “spur” roads for 2 miles we hiked the remaining ¾ mile into the “Natural Bridge”.  This “Bridge” is another creation that came about from rushing water through cracks in weaker rock and cutting it into its present form.  It now looms abut 60 feet above the current floor. 

3 November ‘06

When our Dutch/American friends Herman and Antonia “Tony” Kophoff heard that we were coming to Furnace Creek here in Death Valley, they told us about this group called “The 49ers”.  Well we had no idea as to what we were getting into…what a great party and all for a wonderful cause.  On top of all that the 49ers are bringing to the Death Valley, we still have the Valley and all it has to explore.  After checking into the campground and getting set up, we headed off to our first exploration.  Zabriskie Point.  This spot provides a beautiful view over the Furnace Creek Badlands, a vast area of uplifted, eroded yellow hills.  These contours are the remains of a lake bed over 5 to 10 million years ago.  It is unbelievable what the yellow tones and the contrasting shadows, as the day closes, bring to the canvas.  Then it was off to “Twenty Mule Team Canyon”.  It too was a part of the lake bottom and contained the same yellow hills with heavy texturing were the rain has streaked and pot marked the surfacing.  The hills were also found to contain “Borax” so there are mines dotted throughout.  This was another off road experience that took us on another circus ride through the hills, even as we traveled at 5 to 10 miles per hour. 

1 November ‘06

Last Friday morning Louise and I awoke about 5am and headed for the airport in Las Vegas.  Louise was on her way to Coeur d’Alene for Joelle’s 40th birthday.  Leslee and Mikleane were also on their way to CDA as well but had no idea that Louise was going to surprise all 3 of them.  We were unable to be around for any of their 40^th birthdays, so Louise decided to make this surprise trip to celebrate all three at once.  It worked out just about as planned…the best thing is they all had a great time.  Happy Birthday Joelle !!! 

The last few days have been spent close to home except on Halloween.  About 4 we headed for Las Vegas to see what Halloween is like there.  Our main objective was to spend the early evening in the “Fremont Street” area.  After a short stay along the strip we headed for Fremont and a place to park our car.  We were treated to some wonderfully designed costumes from young kids to adults all night.  The casinos weren’t too good to us financially, but it was still fun.  One place we were on the hunt for was a small casino that serves these little frozen cocktails…kind of like Baskin and Robbins…26 flavors or more…twas yummy…we made a short night of it by getting back home just before the “witching hour” (mid-night).  Now the rest of this week, a trip to Wal-Mart and another grocery store a couple of times and that is about all.  Yesterday we invited Peg and Bruce to join us for lunch here at the winery.  We really enjoyed the lunch.  We had been told how good it was and it didn’t disappoint us.  Bruce gave me a hat from KarmaBum (the web site that carries their European journal) and I gave him one of the flag poles like we have at the front of our coach.  We plan to see each other somewhere out there in our travels, but right now it is an open book.  Last week we met a couple originally from the Netherlands.  They have their motor home across the street from us.  Herman and Tony came to the states about 1974 and settled in California.  Wouldn’t you know it, he went into real estate and soon after started his own brokerage with a partner.  We’ve enjoyed hearing and telling stories about their and our trips to Europe.  They purchased a book that gives them all of the convents and monasteries that accept overnight guests.  It has been a wonderful way to travel through Europe for them.  On Friday we check out of this campground and will head back to Death Valley.  This time we will take the time to explore the southern end of the valley.  On Sunday Herman and Tony will be joining us.

25 October ‘06

Today it was off to Red Rock Canyon.   Just 10 miles from Las Vegas, the mountains rise to a great colorful spectacle, formed along a fault zone with peaks over 8,000 feet.  Huge cliffs and ravines of grey, white and red rock bands, all heavily eroded. The wide plains beneath the hills are studded with Joshua trees and other desert plants, contributing to a most impressive site.  We first arrived at the visitors center and then off to see those beautiful red mountains.  The closer we got, the more detail you could see in those rocks.  There were also rock climbers, climbing and repelling all those rocks.  We met a couple from Holland that were climbing.  They travel each year to find new locations to climb, in as many countries as possible.  The canyon has 13 miles of roadway that takes you through many different looks throughout the valley and mountains.  At one stop, we decided to hike across the plain and into another beautiful canyon that split one of the mountains.  We really enjoyed the hike but were a little disappointed that we didn’t see any animal life.  Just after the “Gold and Silver Rush” of this area, the prospectors would turn their burros loose rather than try to take them back from where ever they had originally come from. Now you can find the ancestors of those burros running all over these hills and plains.  In one way it is too bad that we are here in the winter because of the shorter days, but on the other hand, the heat of the summers is more than we want to go hiking in.  Oh well, with the temp at 75 and us with so many more sites to see, we will take what we can. 

24 October ‘06

Bruce and Peggy picked us up this morning for a drive out to China Ranch.  China Ranch is a family owned and operated small farm, with lush greenery amidst the Mojave Desert.  Imagine towering cottonwoods and willows by a wandering stream, date palms and abundant wildlife, all hidden away in some of the most spectacular scenery the desert has to offer.  The Ranch is also rich in history. The Old Spanish Trail is within walking distance, as is the historic Tonopah & Tidewater railroad bed. You can hike to nearby abandoned mines if you wish, or just relax and browse through our store having one of the best shakes I have ever had…a “Date Shake”.  I mean it, this shake was absolutely “the best”, although I did get the small one and 4 spoons to share it…nice of me right?  We took a long walk through the date trees and along a small stream that flows through the property.  It was harvest time in the orchard, so we were able to get a little education on dates today as well.  One thing that was really interesting to us was they had found that wrapping the dates in paper wrapping to protect them from the birds and hasten the ripening just wasn’t working to well.  The paper would blow away, melt in the rain (if and when it might rain), and the birds could find their way in easily.  Then someone at the ranch/date farm came up with the idea of wrapping the date pods with a dress or large shirt…it lasts much longer, doesn’t blow off as easily, the birds don’t like the feel and movement, and the longevity of the cloth is much longer…not to mention the “coloring of the orchard”.  The drive down into the small valley known as China Ranch is beautiful.  It is a gravel road that does get washed out every rainstorm, winds and twists through the hills of sand and light porous rock.  We saw several mine openings that have been cut into this rock, but they were all boarded up for safety.  I know I wouldn’t want to venture into one of them…weak walls and ceilings, no large planks to hold up the tunnel, and snakes…. 

22 October ‘06

Today was a very special day for Louise and I….we are meeting Bruce and Peggy after all this time.  Most of you will remember how it was that Louise found their web page back in November of ’03 and gave us “our way of seeing Europe”.  The rest is history, except actually meeting Bruce and Peggy in person.  Meeting them could have been under better circumstances (Peggy’s mother had just passed away and they found themselves living here in Pahrump to settle her mothers estate) but the best thing is we did finally get together.  When they walked around the front of the coach, it was like a homecoming.  We melted together immediately with all our stories of travels through Europe in a ‘VW’ campervan.  There was an art show going on at one of the other campgrounds in town, so we joined them for look-see.  This campground is attached to Terribles Casino.  This is more like a “resort” than the usual campground.  Very nice !!!

21 October ‘06

Pahrump ???  Pahrump what ???  I thought they had some unusual names for the towns in Europe, but not a “Pahrump”…  Anyway, we continued driving south this morning and pulled into this Nevada town of Pahrump.  It was a little strange as we come down into the valley and saw this sprawling town in front of us.  A sign along side of the road told us we were in Pahrump but the few homes that lined the roadway told us we were not quite there yet.  About 8 miles further we did come to some commercial businesses and low and behold a couple of “casinos”.  The casinos were no big surprise as we were in Nevada, but the layout Pahrump…another story.  The turn off was at Winery Road so we knew we had a possibility of something better to look forward to.  Finding our campground up this road was easy and the big highlight was that we were attached to this “winery” as well.  Once settled in, we noticed that we were in a very nice campground with a lot of extras we can enjoy…a swimming pool, hot tub, lots of available hiking, a full daily schedule of things to do (including computer classes and more), and a very good restaurant at the winery.