31 March ‘07

Saturday

We all knew that the day was coming and today was it…the day we pass back into the states and leave the Baja behind.  The campground director in San Felipe told us that it would be best to leave early in the morning on Saturday or stay for another whole week.  Well ready or not, we didn’t want to stay for another whole week because of the week long HUGE 24/7 celebration that was about ready to start.  It was a holy celebration that the Mexicans really get into, and it does run day and night.  They expected the beaches to be covered entirely with tents and the campground would be sold out as well.  That was enough for us, we were out of there.  Our drive to Mexicali would take us along the top of the Sea of Cortez and skirt the mountains on our left.  The road was really pretty good, and the views all along the drive were wonderful.  They even had one of the many cross country road races going on and the course took them pretty close the highway we were on.  We only saw one car that was going full-out, but that was exciting as it was.  Our directions that we received from those that had experienced crossing the border at Mexicali were pretty straight forward.  Fact is, we were to follow the same highway (which as we arrived in Mexicali turned into a major street) all the way to the “border fence” and then turn left and follow that fence to the border crossing.  This is too much of a good dream.  The road took us directly to the “border fence” and as I turned right toward the border crossing, I found myself facing head-on with a car that was “in my lane”.  The look on his face was something to behold…Us in a very large motor home, and another behind me, looking down onto the hood of this little car.  Something had to change!  We had turned onto a four lane road that had two yellow lines dividing those 4 lanes, and there were NO arrows indicating that we were going onto an ONEWAY street, but behold the truths of MEXICO…  Quickly a few words through the windshield of our motor home to the little car below, “OK, I NOW “SEE” THAT WE ARE GOING THE WRONG WAY, BUT YOU HAD BETTER BACK-UP SO THAT I CAN GET US BOTH OUT OF HERE !!!”   As I crept forward, he backed up and finally I was able to swing into a parking lot on the corner and swing wide enough to make a full “U-Turn” and back onto the road going the right way.  The only problem was, Phil and Kathy, being directly behind us, tried doing the same “U-Turn” DIDN’T MAKE IT !!!  Oh my God, it happened again.  I quickly found a spot that I could pull into and ran back to see if I could help.  I was wearing my “flip flops”, which I soon found out are not the right kind of shoe to wear while running, when I heard that sound that I know nobody wanted to hear…a siren.  Sure as heck, there he was, a motorcycle cop with his lights blinking and standing there with this big smile on his face.  Kathy and Phil were as fast as Louise and I were when we were handed the same “U-Turn” fate, in getting their car unhooked and backed out.  The cop was great, because not only did he have a sense of humor, he even directed traffic around Phil’s motor home until it and the car were free and parked in front of were we were parked.  Of course the cop followed him over and with his lights still flashing he listened to our explanation in regards to “NO ONE WAY SIGN, AND THOSE DOUBLE “YELLOW LINES”…   His reply was “No Problema” and he gave us in Spanish and sign language, to follow him…WE WERE TO GET A POLICE ESCORT to the border…”WE LOVE MEXICO !!!!”   

29/30 March ‘07

Thursday & Friday

I was thrilled to finally get to San Felipe after traveling that “road” (Hwy 3) from Ensenada.  It was one of the worst roads I have traveled here in the Baja and damned happy it was over.  The directions to the campground were right on, no trouble there.  It was located right on the beach and within 2 short blocks from town.  Today’s San Felipe is a far cry from that of 1746 when it received it’s name from the Jesuit Padre Consag, although it’s tidal range is still in one of the largest in the world.  The whole town follows a boardwalk for 4 blocks and contains as many bars and restaurants as those that sell all the Mexican souvenirs.  Other than that, I think we saw 2 grocery stores mixed in with them.  The “Spring Break” crowd was here and the town was ready.  As you walk the streets in town it was like walking inside of the largest speaker systems you have ever seen.  The problem was that each bar was BLASTING a different song.  Phil, Kathy, Louise, and I walked by one of the bars with the doors open and found that the only thing happening inside was the music…nobody had shown up yet.  Then as we passed by about an hour later, they were just posting a note on the door that demanded a $5 cover charge and the Spring Break gang was standing in line to get in.  From that time on it was party, party, party.  The campground we chose was ok, but the location that we were given to park was right in front of a large covered patio in which the next night was going to be the location for a large party that would last for a week, day and night. We both stayed the one night and then moved to a campsite next door.  It was much tighter to get into and set up, but other than that, it was still on the beach.  I did find out that the site that I was parked in didn’t have a good electrical hook-up so we decided to use our solar system instead of moving again.  The Spring Breakers have been up and down the beach and the streets, but overall, they just haven’t been an item to us.  Yes, they do party hardy and the music is load, but we haven’t lost any sleep during our time there.  We’ve all been eating together each night since we started and we have been eating well.  There is no doubt, there will come the day when we will have to get back onto the Atkins program once again.  We enjoyed our time in San Felipe and we thought the town was OK, but as we drove out of town and started to look at what was coming, it was almost too bad to see the huge developments that are on their way.  Well after 3 days, we were going to be on our way and heading back to the states after 3 1/2 months.

Wednesday March 28, 2007

Hello, my name is Phil Lublin. Joel has asked me to be a guest author and write a journal for today.

We arose to a wonderfull sunny day, like so many in the Baja. I think after having spent a week in much cooler weather with lots of wind we were all ready to move on to San Felipe.

All seemed normal until I checked my tire pressure. Wow! down to 35 pounds. What a shock. That seemed to hit us all. Now what. Parked on a beach with no way of getting air. Joel and I walked down the beach and asked the fellow from another motorhome if he could help us out. Sure enough he had an air line and was able to fill the tire. We decided that another tire shop visit was in order. On to Costco in Ensenada. Lots of room to park. Joel and I then began the search for a tire shop. We got the coach there and it was another Mexican experience.We left to grab lunch and returned to find them spashing soapy water on the tire. But it was still on the coach. After some discussion, the tire was removed and taken of the rim. No problem on the inside or out. A new valve was in order. Some pesos changed hands and we were back to hook up and get on the delayed trip to San Felipe.

After we got out if the city the road seemed better than most. We wound our way through a mountainous section. Then into a beautiful valley. It wasn't long before we had to play " dodge the potholes". The road was terrible. The coaches were all over the road. Thank goodness for very little traffic. After three hours we pulled of the road for a brake. Joel said it felt like we had driven six hours, he was beat. My lower back was sore and I wasn't sure if I had any fillings left in my teeth. After a quick break we moved on. It was soon going to be dark. The balance of the ride was better.

In town there is a series of traffic circles. Joel was a bit ahead and we missed which way he went. Once around the circle and we found him. Lucky for us. Louise did a wonderfull job of directing us to a campground.

Drink in hand, Joel and I wondered off to check out the beach. All of a sudden, we see this pick-up truck drive down the beach. It was dark already. It seemed like he was driving right into the wter. There must have been a sand bar there. He drove right to a boat that was sitting there.  We heard a roar from the truck engine and he was coming up the beach. The tires were spinning and we could not believe our eyes. He was dragging the boat through the sand. The boat appeared to be at least 30 feet long. Crazy Mexican.

The next stop was a nearly empty campground right next door. We saw a very expensive four seat, Corvettte powered off road machine. Being guys we had to go look at it up close. We met three interesting Mexican people from San Diego, California. They had a small campfire going and great tunes playing. After joking with them for a while. We decided to go back. Our drinks were gone and the ladies had no idea where we were.

Soon supper was on the table and we enjoyed another wonderfull meal prepared by our brides.

Great food, laughter and good friends. Soon we were all tired and ready for bed. We said our goodnites and went off to bed thinking of the next days experiences.

Well, as you all can see, I can be long winded. This writing was at Joel's insistance. After seeing this he may never ask me to do it again. It has been fun writing this.

To all that read this. May someday you have the oppourtunity to follow your dreams and enjoy what the world has waiting for you.

Good health and safe travel.

Phil Lublin    

27 March ‘07

Tuesday

Suzie came up to the coach for a cup of coffee while Ricardo got the Suburban and his boat ready to head to the border.  We all said our goodbyes and they were off.  I wanted to go to the same tire shop that Phil had used yesterday so that I could add air to my tires, so it wasn’t but a couple of minutes and we were on our way as well.  As soon as we pulled out of town, the hills were in front of us again.  As yesterday, the ride along the ridge of the hills, the winding and twisting were tough on trying to get better gas mileage. We had about a 3 ½ hour drive ahead of us today and we were going to end up at La Bufadora, which is about 45 minutes south of Ensenada.  Unfortunately for the gas mileage, we encountered heavy side winds that blew sand and dirt horizontally across the roads.  All I could think of was “just how much dust can the air cleaner on the engine take?”  The coach and the toad became a mess in just a few minutes and unfortunately is still that way now.  A coach and car wash is going to have to wait until we get to Yuma, and I sure hope that I can do it then.  After finding our campground just out side of Bufadora, we all jumped into Phil and Kathy’s car and drove out to see the “Blow Hole” in Bufadora.  This Blow Hole is like the one that you see in Hawaii, with certain wave action, it pushes this large mass of water into this crevice and with that it blows a heavy spray up into the air…they say it will blow up to 75 feet, but today…maybe 15.  Enough of the blow hole, we are off to Wal-Mart in Ensenada to do a little shopping.  

26 March ‘07

Monday

Good morning…this morning we woke to a beautiful windless sunny day, the water was absolutely flat, and dolphins playing right out in front of our coach.  The unfortunate thing about this morning was that it was a travel day.  We had to see if we could either catch up with Ricardo and Suzie or stop somewhere out there and have them catch up to us.  This morning’s start was to take us back to Hwy 1, which is about 40 miles, and then onto San Quintin, which give us a total of just under 250 miles…a hell of a long day.  Just like before, when we were coming into Bahia de los Angles, the view back towards the bay was breath taking but the rest of the 40 miles was through some of the same desert mountainous areas we have traveled for many a mile.  Just before Catavina, and the Desierto Central, we came into the “Catavina Boulder Fields”.  This vast area of car-sized boulders that run as far as you can see and top the hills so that it will make you strain to see the top, are accented with the Cardon Cacti, elephant trees, and so many other plant species that it would take a year to count.  Then no sooner are you in with the boulders and you are out again.  Now we are climbing to the top of these hills.  The road will follow the very top of the ridge for well over an hour.  With a cliff on each side of the road making it a white knuckle drive by itself, we are also given the challenge of switch back corning.  First going up, and then coming down, one time you meet a truck coming at you and the next nothing…I can’t say that I am getting used to the narrow, no shoulder roads, but I can relax a little more than when we went down.  We pulled into El Rosario for gas and lunch and while Phil was getting his tank filled, he noticed that his left front tire was really low on pressure.  He was lucky that he found it when he did, because after lunch we were headed right back into the same type of roads.  Luckily coming into El Rosario, we had noticed this large tire shop, so we thought it would be just the right break we needed to have lunch at this famous restaurant here in town, and have the tire fixed at the same time.  Just having pulled Phil and Kathy’s motor home up the tire shop, I picked up my Mexican cell phone to see if I could reach Ricardo and Suzie.  Wouldn’t you know it, they were just pulling into El Rosario and were but a quarter of a mile away.  All 6 of us now could have lunch together and as it turned out, we all stayed over night as well.  It was a needed stop for all of us and it was also a great time to see each other once more before we start to spread out across the country again. 

25 March ‘07

Sunday

Coming into Bahia de los Angles yesterday was like coming into any small town in Alaska, except for the surrounding desert and sea.  This town is made up of older small buildings that sit on the side of dirt roads (except the main road through the town which is under construction for repaving).  One thing that is definitely missing is the raised board sidewalks that are recognizable in a lot of Alaskan paintings.  The first thing we did was to drive though the main street looking for a place that we could pull into for the night.  Rounding the corner at the end of the town, we came to the end of the road.  Now when you are pulling a car (Toad) behind a motor home, you will find it impossible to back up, and like in this situation, the street wasn’t wide enough for us to make a “U” turn either.  Boy did we look like amateurs, two motor homes with toads behind and now finding themselves at the end of the road… I think I saw someone from the local newspaper out there taking pictures.  Well we got the cars unhooked from the coach and got all of them turned around.  Back down the hill we found a place to park both motor homes and Phil’s car.  We decided that it was best if we took one of the cars out and did a through search of the area for a campsite.  It didn’t take too long before we found the right campground so back to the parked motor homes.  15 minutes later we were both all set-up and enjoying a beautiful view out to the Sea of Cortez.  There was anywhere from 8 to a dozen islands out in front of us as well.  The water was so flat that it looked like you could just walk across it to the islands, that was until about 5, then the wind started to blow.  Like so many of the places that we have been at lately, the late afternoon winds start to come up and then as they increase in strength it drives you inside.  We did have a great morning going when we got up.  Again the sea was absolutely flat, and because of the distance from the roads and the town, it was supper quiet.  As I stood by the motor home I heard this “sweesh” sound.  It turned out to be a whale.  As I stood there waiting for the next blow I was treated by 3 others in 3 different locations.  At one time we had as many as 6 spouting, and then just about as fast as they came, they disappeared. 

24 March ‘07

Saturday

After an early breakfast in the coach, we were on our way towards Bahia de los Angles.  About 2 miles outside of Guerrero Negro we were stopped by the people manning the “Immigracion Office”.  As far as I know, this is the only place all throughout the Baja that the government will stop you to check your immigration papers.  On the way down this last December, we were stopped at this same place but it was for a check on any produce that we may have.  At that time the young lady came on board and confiscated quite a lot of fruit and vegetables that we had in the refrigerator.  On this drive up, we thought we would be confronted with the same, so we put all of the produce into a separate container and hid it.  Much to our surprise, they didn’t even ask us about produce, they just wanted to check our papers…  Earlier in our drive up from Cabo, we had been stopped at 2 different locations along the road by the military.  They are looking for drugs and guns.  On both occasions we were just waved through without an inspection, although later today we were stopped about halfway to our turnoff to Bahia de los Angles.  This time they decided to board our coach and Phil and Kathy’s coach as well.  It is interesting to go through their “search”.  Two young men in uniform ask if we would allow them to board.  Of coarse it was the thing to do (I didn’t want to find out what they would do if I said “No”).  One young man went right back to the bedroom area and tried to open a couple of drawers and a closet door.  Because the slides were in, they were completely blocked and couldn’t be opened.  That was OK, as he decided to shine his flashlight around and leave anyway.  The second found my computer/phone headphone set.  Apparently he had never seen anything like that before so he had a lot of questions about it…”what is it?, how much did it cost?, will you SELL it to me?...  Obviously I say no, and that was OK too.  They both thanked us and wished us a good journey.  Up Highway 1 another 20 miles, we came to our corner to head to Bahia de los Angles.  This turn and the rest of the drive is new territory to Louise and me and also for Phil and Kathy.  The road is fairly new in getting paved, as it hasn’t been too long ago, that it was paved for the first time.  This route takes us 45 miles southeast in just about the same direction that we had been coming from.  Most of the time it seemed like we were going slightly downhill, though a mountain desert area just as we had been traveling in for the last 9 days.  About 3 miles outside of town we were coming over the last hill and let me tell you, what we saw was one of the most beautiful sea and island areas I have ever seen…it was Beautiful, with a capital “B”.

23 March 2007

Friday

Well we are a few days ahead of what we thought we would be coming up the Baja.  This afternoon we pulled into Guerrero Negro.  A few years ago Louise and I stopped here and went out on a whale watching excursion.  That was the time were we encountered the “friendly whale”…what an experience.  Today we are here only to have a place to camp for the night and have a dinner at their restaurant.  They do serve some of the best seafood dinners you can get.  Prior to dinner we all got into Phil’s car and drove out to see the salt mine and some of the evaporation ponds.  We were hoping that we could get out to see the bay with the whales, but that was closed off to us. After cocktail hour at the coach with Phil and Kathy, the four of went into the dining room for dinner.  After looking the menu over about a dozen times, we all decided to have the scallops…it wasn’t a mistake, they were incredible. 

22 March ‘07

Wednesday

This morning, Phil, Kathy, Louise and I drove into Mulege for the afternoon.  Mulege is a town that “if” you find a parking place, you spend the day walking to see the rest of the town.  Not too much has changed in Mulege over the last 50 years or more, except since the last time we were here 5 years ago they have added a bank and 2 Pemex gas stations.  Now this may not sound like much of a change, but believe me, it is…  After our initial walk around the town (which took us a total of 20 minutes), we went looking for a good place to eat.  One of the “semi-locals” to us about Don’s Place, “this is the best the town has to offer, and it’s quite reasonable”…  Don’s Place was easy to find, so we went up the stairs, looked the place over, and decided to order.  The only thing wrong with Don’s Place, was the serving size.  First there was the soup, then the entrée for lunch.  They were all so big that all of came to the same conclusion…If we ever come back, we will only order one entrée for the two of us…it was really good and it was REALLY BIG !!!! Phil wanted to spend some time at the internet café, so the rest of us walked off a little bit of our lunch.  When Phil finished, we walked up the hill to the museum.  This building that now houses the museum, sits high on the hill over looking the valley and the town below.  It is a large white building that reminded Louise and I of one of the many fortresses that we saw all across Europe.  High thick walls with a tower located at all four corners.  Once in side, it was evident that this was used as a prison in the middle 1800’s to the middle 1900’s.  It has a picture of this young 13 year old boy that was being killed by a firing squad for stealing some fruit…this was a bad place !!!  Next it was back down the hill and off to see this very old mission.  This mission was one of the oldest in the Baja (prox mid 1700’s). Again, it had those massively thick adobe walls, small windows, and huge doors.  Then it was back to the car and off to find this “Bell Rock” that Louise had been reading about.  Fortunately it wasn’t too far from where we were camped.  The biggest problem was to find this stone in the middle of a stone filled mountain. We were also told of some carvings that had been done on some of the stones by the early “Indians”.  Luck was on our side as we no sooner had arrived at what was described as the right spot, and we spotted some art work that had been etched on the rock.  Then just by chance, Louise struck a large rock with a small stone and the damn rock came back with a sound like a large bell…it was amazing to say the least.  Well, it’s been another full day.  The wind blew real hard last night, and again blew sand all over the place.  This morning it was still windy, but not too much to write home about.  Now on the other hand, the wind is hollowing again.  In the morning we will be out of here, a little disappointed that we couldn’t get into the water with the kayak more, but even with one day out there, it was wonderful.  Tomorrow…

21 March ‘07

Tuesday

Yesterdays drive up the Sea of Cortez was short and sweet.  We pulled out of Laredo about 9:30 am and headed up the coast to Bahia Concepción.  The drive took us about 3 hours and when we arrived we had our choice of at least 10 different beaches (Playa) to choose from. A few years ago Louise and I stayed a couple of nights at Playa El Requeson, and then on our way down the Baja in December, we stayed a couple of nights at Playa Buenaventura.  We totally enjoyed both of these beaches.  Phil and Kathy stayed a couple of nights this last January at Playa Santispac and had great things to say about this beach, so, taking their advice we found a couple of great spots to park.  One of the great advantages for Louise and me was the quick and easy access to the water for our kayak.  We hadn’t been parked but an hour and we were unloading the kayak and getting ready to head out.  Bahia Concepcion has been described in the books as the “desert Polynesia”.  This huge bay, open to the north and sheltered on the east by some tall hills, has a string of sandy beaches and small islands.  Now a national marine preserve, this large bay is one of the cleanest marine systems in the world.  The bay is about 26 miles long and at the widest point it is about 10 miles.  We took the kayak out along the coast and followed from one beach area to another and then headed out to visit one of the larger islands in the bay.  This island was only inhabited by birds, but boy was it inhabited.  We saw Blue-footed Boobies, magnificent frigates, 3 different pelicans, and enough sea gulls to fill the shores of Puget Sound all over again.  The day was perfect…

When we got back, we found Phil and Kathy sitting at waters edge and immediately got them fitted with our life vests, a little instruction, and a shove out to enjoy the wonders of kayaking for themselves. 

20 March ‘07

Tuesday

Today we left Ciudad Constitucion and headed across the peninsula to Loreto.  Ciudad Constitucion is a medium sized town that makes its mark in agriculture.  For weeks now I have been eating great strawberries that have come from this area, and when in the grocery stores we pick up most of our veggies that were grown from here as well.  Also important to us, is this is the best place to stop and make sure that your gas tank is full.  It can be a long drive in either direction if you find yourself passing the Pemex Stations here.  When we make the right turn, after going through town, we start our ride on those narrow roads that have given the Baja its reputation.  Prior to this point, the roads were a mix of 2 lanes and 4 lanes all the way to or from Cabo San Lucas.  Yes, they were still a narrow passage way, but believe me when I say “Narrow” from now on.  The road is very straight most of the 83 miles across this part of the peninsula as well as a fare amount of road and bridge construction.  After we leave the farm fields we start to see the plains of scrub and small cacti until we start our climb up the foothills prior to the Sea of Cortez.  At that point we see again a change.  The cacti become very tall, with most being single stems that reach for the sky, and then there are others that put out an additional branch or two to add another character.  The dry scrub has changed from dead to green to complement the cacti and the dark rocks of the hills that are now growing into full sized mountains.  The climb is gradual although there is lots of hairpin turns.  When it’s time to make the decent to the sea, it is very steep.  Most of the time the transmission is in the lower gear range as we descend, and we needed the lower speed as we come into the corners that have no protective guard rails. One of my favorite sites is when we come around that last turn and right in front of us is this beautiful golf course and the town of Loreto.  Loreto was the first European settlement in the “Californias”, and the religious capital for 132 years.  This morning I was out for a walk about 7:30am and they were having a service in the Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto.  This chapel was first built in October 1697 and fortunately has been rebuilt many times keeping the original feeling as much as possible.  So much to see and so little time to do it.  Louise and I were first introduced to the La Picazon Restaurant in Cabo San Jose about 10 years ago.  They then moved to San Lucas a couple of years later.  Three years ago, they decided to move to Loreto.  Bonnie and Doug had given a good try to find them but failed…we, arriving today asked more questions and got some good directions.  Let me tell you, this was a challenge, but we did find them.  They are located north of Loreto about 5 miles, that is 5 miles on a dirt “track”.  Keeping strong to our desire to eat a great lunch, we kept on until we found them.  This little “restaurant” is now a “destination” restaurant.  The food is still great, the service is wonderful, and the family who owns and operates this operation are the best.  Now, the view and the décor…well, you’ve to see for yourself, it is too much and too good to describe. 

19 March ‘07

Monday

Yesterdays drive up to La Paz and Tecolate Beach was uneventful with the exception of the “Hot Rod” sound coming from underneath the coach.  The drive though La Paz was easy and then taking the road out past the ferry terminal and onto Tecolate was all new.  The road was a typical two lane roadway from here in Mexico, narrow, potholed, and a couple “deviations” before getting to Tecolate.  When we arrived we found that it would be to our best interest if we would unhook one of our cars and drive out onto the sand and check out if and were we could park the motor homes.  We found it wasn’t too much of a challenge, so we pulled out.  We wound our way around sand dunes and other motor homes and campers, a few tents and beach goers.  Finally we found a place that would work.  We pulled the two motor homes right onto the rocks that bordered to sand and the sea, we were finally here.  Getting ourselves all set up, jacks down, chairs out, and a sand mat laid out, we were ready to sit and relax with the Sea of Cortez at our door steps.  About an hour later we noticed that the wind would come up and throw sand all over us and then it would die down again.  This happened for about 30 minutes and then it got to the point that the wind and sand drove us inside for the night…Let me tell you, it was a NIGHT to remember…the wind howled and shook the coach so hard, and the sand was  pelting so with a rage that come morning we decided to GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE !!!  It was nasty.  In the morning it did die down, but we had had enough.  We were now on our way to Puerto Lopez Mateous (Magdalena Bay).  After stopping for gas and traveling across the peninsula, we found a campground just outside of Constituion.  This morning we headed out to Puerto Lopez Mateous to see if we could find the gray whales.  We left the motor homes behind and took Phil and Kathy’s Honda.  It was about a 45 minute drive.  Once there we contacted a tour guide that could take us out to see the whales.  The 4 of us and Fernando our skipper jumped into his “Panga” and headed out.  The boat ride took us out past this peninsula of sand that seemed to stretch for miles.  Just after rounding the end the sea got to swell and swell and swell…we were in for a “boat ride” to end boat rides.  The swells came from the bar that separated this peninsula from the Pacific Ocean, similar to the bar at the Columbia River.  Finally as we got closer to the bar it’s self, we were in the middle of the whales.  Big “Momma” whales and little “Baby” whales.  I don’t know how many we saw, but we had a blast over the next hour and a half, “WOW, LOOK !!!,  OVER THERE !!!!, It was amazing.  We also saw a group of porpoise that was following our bow.  On the way back, Fernando saw something on the sandy peninsula that he wanted to show us.  As we came to about 15 feet to shore and a group of small tree branches that were hanging out into the water, there on one of the branches was this little sea lion pup…Fernando made his tip on this trip !!!     

17 March ‘07

Saturday

After leaving Vagabondo’s RV Park in Los Cabos, we headed toward Todos Santos.  We are traveling up the Baja with Phil and Kathy.  They also have a motor home (36 foot Holiday Rambler) and they are pulling their Honda.  Our first stop for the night was a spot that is just 15 kms south of Todos Santos and one that is a favorite with surfers.  This is a “Free” camping spot.  It is located about ¼ mile off of Highway 1 and right on the beach.  The road coming in is packed sand and dirt and the areas that can hold the campers, is also solid ground.  Coming off the highway was quite an experience, as there is no shoulder, so you drop off about 6 or more inches from the black-top.  It is enough to make the coach moan and groan and just about everything sounds like it is going to come out of the cabinets. Soon we are settled, our jacks are dropped, the chairs are out, and a drink is in hand.  The surf is up and pounding…the sun is bright and we are waiting now for a magnificent sunset.  We did unhook Phil’s car and head into see Frank and Lynn.  Their home is in Todos Santos, but when we got there we found out that they were in La Paz until Sunday.  Frank hasn’t been feeling well, so we thought he might have gone up there to see the doctor.  Saturday morning we pulled the two coaches out of their spots and started heading to La Paz ourselves.   We were heading to Tecolate Beach, which is about 15 miles east of La Paz.  Driving out of the campsite here at “Surfers Beach”, was again riding all the sand  / dirt and bumps.  Just as I was pulling over that 6 or more inches onto the highway, I hit the bottom of the coach hard.  All of a sudden I knew that something was really hurt, I had no power to move forward and there was this terrible noise.  I, we were in trouble and I didn’t yet know why.  About 200 yards up the road I found a spot that was long enough for the two rigs to pull off the road.  I went back to tell Phil that something had happened and then I ran forward to crawl under my coach to find out what I could.  The first thing I saw was that the tailpipe and the muffler was completely wrapped around the driveshaft and rear axle…totally crimped in 4 places and not moving even a fraction of an inch.  Shoot !!!!  After climbing out and telling Louise, Phil and Kathy what I found, we ran through our options.  As it turned out, Phil and I jumped into my car and headed off to Todos Santos.  I was hoping to find some one who could come out and cut the tail pipe and muffler off.  This was no easy task.  Luckily Phil found this young man that was having a garage sale and asked him if he spoke any English…”Heck Yes Man, What Can I Do For You?”  He volunteered to help us out and find someone that could do the work for me.  He left his stuff sitting along side the road and got into my car and off we went.  We had been told about this fellow up and around the street, that did some welding and he might have what it takes to cut the pipe.  Thanks to our “volunteer” Miguel agreed to give it a try.  He put his electric saw into a case and got into my car.  Dropping off our “volunteer”, we were off.  About an hour and a half later, we were on our way back to Todos Santos to deliver Miguel back to his shop and pay his bill…$400 pesos = $40. Dollars.  I would have and thought I would have to pay 3 times that much.  Now back to the coach, grab a sandwich and coke, and we are now off to Tecolate Beach and with a new sound coming from under our coach…ROARRRR

15 March ‘07

Thursday

Well this is the last day…let’s get it all cleaned and packed up.  Most of the day was spent just doing that.  We did have a lot of friends dropping by to say good-bye and asking if we were to be back again next year…No, not next year but we will be thinking of all of you about this time then. 

Suzie and Ricardo have invited Phil and Kathy Lublin, Louise and me over to their “casita” tonight for dinner with some others that are also leaving in the morning.  It seems that this is the time of year, here in Cabo, that a lot of those that have been here awhile start moving north.  All of us had a great time and promised to keep in touch with each other.  Suzie and Ricardo, THANK YOU for being there for us and with us!!!

14 March ‘07

Wednesday

Wednesday morning we started in earnest to get ourselves and the coach ready for leaving…I worked on the outside by opening all the basement cavities, taking everything out, wiping the walls and floors down, and then restocking.  Louise was inside doing the same thing, opening all the drawers, cabinets, and closets and getting them looking like brand new.  Then at noon we both headed out to the airport to pick up Bonnie and Doug.  They were coming back from their “journey” up to Scottsdale Arizona.  Bon had to be air-vacked to the Mayo Clinic last Sunday morning and thank God she is OK.  It is good to have her back here in Cabo and being in great health...I think she was just looking for a first class ride in one of those fancy Lear Jets.  Wednesday night Lou and I had a great dinner with Ernie and Sheila Pontius.  We went to a great Italian restaurant that Ricardo and Suzie introduced us too,   Salvadores…the food is sooo good, but sooo much of it.  All of us split 2 salads, 2 main courses, and one Tiramisu.  I must say, we ate like kings.  Joannie Feinstein was there with some of her friends (clients), so we had a chance to visit with her for a couple of minutes as well.  Two unfortunate things about Salvadores was the service really needs help, and this band that comes in for tips only…they should be asking for tips to LEAVE !!!  We were really glad to get together with Ernie and Sheila, they are very special and great friends…

13 March 07

Tuesday

I’m going to go back to Monday night when Ricardo, Suzie, Louise and I went to dinner at Mi Casa after spending the day at the beach snorkeling.  We had planned to go to Miguel Locos but when we got to the front door it was all locked up and closed for the night…now what?  It didn’t take us too long to make up our minds.  Across the street and the town plaza sat Mi Casa.  The last time we had dinner there was about 10 years ago.  The décor is “Old Mexico” and it is wonderful to let your eyes just wonder from one vignette to the next, and the food…Outstanding !!!  This is a place that just makes you feel good, especially when you have great company to enjoy it with.  It has really been great to find Ricardo and Suzie again, and it will be tough to say good-bye come Friday. 

Tuesday morning we ventured down to the Sand Bar for breakfast and a chance to see all the guys that make the Sand Bar what it is once again...Chino, Able, Alfredo, Rodrigo, and Jesus.  Unfortunately things aren’t back to “normal”, but the court date is coming on Friday, let’s hope that settles it once and forever. About 5 this evening Sheila Pontius called and told us that she and Ernie had 4 free tickets to the New York Ice Show.  Ice show?...Here in Cabo San Lucas?...Free???...We’ll be there !!!  When Lou and I arrived we found Ernie and Sheila waiting out front of this large tent.  At that time, there were no more than 10 to 12 others standing around, but this was about 30 minutes before the gates opened and after all, it’s Mexico and Mexican time prevails…In the next 30 minutes the crowds grew to about 200 or so and the gates were opened.  Seeing as our tickets were “Free”, we were lead off by this young man.  To get to the bleacher section we passed through this maze of supports for the high priced seats and finally to the bleacher section…the “Free Seats”.  No sooner had we had the opportunity to see these bleacher you sit in those seats (pointing to the high priced ($15.00)) for $5.00 or you can sit on these (a 2X6 plank) for “Free”.  Well let me see…a 2X6 plank vs. a plastic seat with a back on it…and the show is how long???...HERE’S YOUR $5 !!!   After being seated in our new “Luxury Seats” and directly in front of the performers we were totally and enthusiastically entertained.  The show took on the New York Theatre theme, with dances and music from different Broadway shows.  We were also entertained with comedy and THE best juggler any of us has ever seen…what a show !!! 

8 March ‘07

Thursday

Things have gotten quite interesting here in Cabo San Lucas over the last few days.  I had mentioned the commotion at the Sand Bar Restaurant earlier, and was wondering how it might play out…well, it’s still playing.  Last Wednesday Louise and I were here at home and having a drink and conversation with Ernie and Sheila, when Ricardo came over and asked us to “rendezvous at the San Bar”.  “Juancho had called and asked all of us to come down and “”sit in at the restaurant and make a presence of ourselves…DO NOT confront anybody!!!”.  It was like calling out the troupes…we ALL headed off for our “assignment”.  It was amazing to watch.  Ernie, Sheila, Louise and I were the first to arrive and find the Sand Bar taken over by TWO LARGE TENTS and all the tables and chairs of the restaurant piled off to one small side.  We grabbed a chair and sat down as we were told.  We had no sooner found our chair and people were arriving to join us from all corners of beach.  In just a few minutes we were joined by many dozens of “sitters”.  We were told that there were some fellows that would be coming by soon and removing the tents, and then it would be our responsibility to move the tables and chairs into the original positions and SIT.  Well just as we had heard, out of nowhere comes this group of Mexican fellows (Big Mexican “fellows”).  As soon as they hit the ground, they had the two tents out and were on their way out of the area….BING, BAM, BING….   Well the guys that were manning the tent now were not too happy.  The first thing they did was to call the police.  The next was to look over the crowd and pick the ones that they thought might be the “ring leaders”… Ricardo and me….  Lots of things were said, tons of pictures were taken of the two of us (I’d like to get copies if someone has any…Please check the internet…), and it was heated.  Soon the police arrived from all the different authorities.  A judge was there, and an attorney for Juancho (who by the way wasn’t there), but not for us…(not that we needed one…).  After about 2 to 3 hours, all the authorities gone, the tents brought up to new locations (still in front of the Sand Bar and blocking the view to the water and the arch), everyone started to depart…no arrests, no one hurt, and really not much accomplished…  Juancho came by Thursday morning to say how much he appreciated all of our “help” and that apparently there will be a court hearing this next Thursday.  Well we will miss all of that, as we will be continuing our tour of the Baja as we head north

6 March ‘07

Tuesday

Our time here in Cabo is still nothing but great!  I can’t just write about the sand, surf, food, and great weather, but….  Yesterday was “The Full Moon Bonfire Party” again.  This was our 3^rd and it produced quite a surprise.  Phil and Kathy’s daughters (Breanne) boyfriend Stefen, and I tried our hand at surf fishing.  We arrived at the same beach as the party was going to be held, about 2 hours early.  The fisherman had already started to arrive and we did notice that there were a couple of small fish already landed.  Excited about the “possibility”, we both readied our pole and cast to the surf.  I don’t know how many casts it took before I noticed the casting arm getting achy, but I continued on.  As far as Stefen, he decided that he had had enough at his first location so he moved further up the beach.  About the 3^rd cast he felt that all important pull…FISH ON !!!  Once landed he proudly held up his prize…a huge Red Snapper !!!  What a catch.  As he walked the beach heading toward the RV crowd at the bonfire, he was the man of the hour.  There wasn’t a man there that wouldn’t have loved to have caught that fish, including me.  Luckily I brought my larger cooler half filled with ice so Stefen could keep his fish fresh.  For me and Louise the prize was our invitation to a great fish dinner the next night.  I kid you not, this was THE best fish dinner I have EVER tasted…Thank you Stefen and Breanne (who made up 2 different spreads) for that incredible night.

3 March ‘07

Saturday

Phil and Kathy Lublin picked us up this morning.  It is “Market Day” in San Jose…  It also is getting to be a social gathering place…3 couples from here at the RV Park, Bonnie, Doug, and Rodger…oh yes, and us…  Quite honestly, when I go it is because of  the streusel, coffee, and tamales.  These tamales are a little different as they are wrapped flat and in a banana leaf.  Now for the rest of the crew (although I noticed all the guys  kind of following my lead), they were after the organic veggies and such…  Louise and I bought our tamales for tonight.  Tonight is supposed to be a total eclipse of the moon as it rises out of the sea, so we wanted to be prepared and well fed for such an occurrence.  Phil and Kathy were expecting their daughter and son-in-law this afternoon from Ottawa, so after dropping us back at the coach they went off to fetch the kids at the airport.  Louise and I went to the beach to soak up a little more sand and sun and have lunch with our feet dug deep in the sand.  About 5, we all took off for the beach to watch the moon rise and be a part of this total eclipse.  There were about 8 of us there as the moon began it’s rise upward….what, what happened to the eclipse???  It didn’t happen…apparently it happened somewhere else in this whole wide world, but not here.  We were ready…warm night, quiet surf, chairs, blankets, cameras, binoculars, food and drink…but what about the moon???  It didn’t show.

2 March ‘07

Friday

Louise and I have had limited exposure here in Mexico, even given the fact that we lived here in Cabo San Lucas for 3 plus years and have been back many times.  Having had said that, it still grinds me the wrong way when I see certain things that go totally under the covers because some person or persons in power receive “mordida” (MONEY). 

Going all the way back to 1988 and then again right this moment someone in one of the police departments is receiving “mordida” to allow the taxi and truck drivers to drive in total abandon.  The taxis aren’t near as bad as those trucks, but their bad enough.  The prime danger comes with the dirt and water trucks.  Because of the incredible growth here in Los Cabos, there are trucks everywhere handling the movement of rock and dirt.  These vehicles would find it impossible to pass an inspection, but they are still out there.  Louise and I have been walking down the sidewalk and have a passing fully loaded dump-truck blow a tire.  This is a common accordance.  Every time we pull up next to a truck on the road, we would be dumb-struck if it had tread on anyone of the tires.  They are so over loaded that the rear axles bend like a “lazy U”.  They travel fast…VERY FAST…and they are in love with their “Jake Brakes”, even when the roads are filled with signs that tells them that they are “ILLEGAL”.  As you are coming down the hill from Todos Santos, you have to pass a hospital, and there must be 6 or 8 signs telling the truck drivers that it is a “QUIET ZONE” … Jake Brakes are ILLEGAL….well, you guessed it…  Hell, the highway out in front of this RV Park is so noisy with those brakes that there are times when you have to stop your conversation with your neighbor because they are so load.  The other day I went to the owner of the park and mentioned that I was surprised that the police wouldn’t use the Jake Brakes as a way to fill their pockets…”a truck comes down or up the hill blaring the brakes and “wham”, you have a fine”…more money in their pockets, personal or…  But no, they pay it up front (mordida) to the “big guy” so they can go about their business without being hassled.  These people have to live with this, and quite honestly, they accept it.  It used to be that the only paved streets in Cabo were those that the mayor and police chief lived on…I’ll bet that hasn’t changed much either.  Those big resorts on the beach and some others have been trying to force Juancho and Doris out of their beach front restaurant/bar for sometime now.  Well, their back at it.  Somehow, this last Wednesday a large tent was set up right in between the restaurant and the water.  The tent is so close to the beach chairs, that there is no room to get into them.  The view out to the water is lost, and now you have 6 to 8 jet-skis sitting in its place.  SOMEONE IS BEING PAID OFF !!! 

25 February ‘07

Sunday

Since the Chouinard's left on Thursday, we haven’t been back to the Sand Bar for breakfast…that is a hard withdrawal to have to go through.  Friday we stuck close to the coach.  I guess we were trying to catch up from all the excitement from the week before.  Saturday morning we went to San Jose to enjoy the Farmers Market.  Ricardo flew out to Portland on Friday so we took Suzie along with us.  I personally go for the foods, but watching the gals, they have other things that are on their mind…vegetables, fruits, hand made jewelry and more.  There is a booth there that makes the best tamales that I have ever tasted, so I bought enough for everyone to enjoy with me once we got back home.  As always, they were incredible.  4 hours later, Lois, Louise and I were loading back into the car and heading out to dinner…Oh yes, Grandma Lois likes to eat early…4pm or as close to it as possible.  Well, it would be 5 before we sat down at the Serena RV Park Restaurant.  Dining here was a first for all of us, and I’ll tell you right now, this is a great place to have a dinner.  First, this is an outdoor restaurant with a “palapa” roof covering us.  A 180 degree view of the Sea of Cortez, the sunset lay out in front of us, and some of the best food we have had in a very long time.  I would consider this a must return destination.  For this mornings breakfast we went to the Bungalows Bed and Breakfast.  We were met at the front door by our long time friend Erik.  It’s always great to see him and his mother Estella (who had the day off and we’ll see later) who have always treated us like family.  We also had a surprise, as Alexi (Estella’s daughter and Erik’s sister) was working there now as well, and handled our table like a pro.  Hell, I remember going to Estella’s first restaurant here in Cabo for breakfast and when my cappuccino was served, this little 2 year old beauty would come out of the kitchen, climb onto my lap (a complete stranger), take my spoon and help her self to the creamy foam from the top of my coffee…now you should see her…wow !!!   The day wasn’t over…a quick change of clothes and we were off to the Sand Bar for a little sun, sand, sea, and “refreshments”. 

22 February ‘07

Thursday

Tuesday Louise’s mother stepped off the plane to join us for a week.  Lois has been down here in Cabo a number of times and it is good to get her here again.  The rest of us, Mikleane, Rick, Lil Louise, Drew, Louise and myself have been starting each day, with “Breakfast At The Sand Bar”…you might say we are joining others like Ricardo and Suzie in becoming “regulars”.  Now we have one more “groupie” joining us…Great Grandma” (90 years old and still traveling the world on her own !!!).  Now this isn’t a bad way to start a day…breakfast under the beach umbrella, bare feet in the sand, 76 degrees in the shade, and Bloody Mary’s around (well, maybe not everyone and not every morning…but…).  For the grandkids it was breakfast (if you can believe, Drew had pancakes every morning) and then off to do as many water sports as a day would allow.  From pool hopping, swimming in the Sea of Cortez, more rides on the parasail, jet-skis, and continuous rides on “The Banana”, it was fun, fun, fun…  I even took a tour on the Banana as well.  My forearms will never be the same from having to hold on so tight.  I must say, it was a lot of fun but I just couldn’t keep up with the younger group.  Yesterday we were honored by Ricardo, using his talent as a photographer, in taking some “family” pictures for us.   Ricardo suggested a special beach location, just before sunset, and the fun began.   One of the primary shots we were looking for was the 4 Generation picture.  Then Ricardo had all of us “posing” for some amazing pictures in an amazing location with an amazing photographer…Thank You Ricardo and Suzie !!!  Then it was back to the coach, get into some dry clothes, and head off to our last dinner in Cabo together.  We had made reservations at Romeo and Juliet’s, which is almost a tradition for us in it’s self.  All of our family has joined us for great meals there over the years.  Now to end this long day, we head back to The Sand Bar (about 9:30pm) to sit around the fire pit and enjoy the fireworks display at waters edge.  When Louise and I traveled through South Dakota this last July, we stopped by this huge fire works warehouse.  I wanted to buy some “BIG” stuff… The thought was to have all this to use during our “Family Re-union”, but the fire hazard was too high, so we continued to carry them until last night.  We did have some “Fine Stuff, Big Stuff, Loud and Pretty Stuff”…we had people coming out onto their terraces at those “high priced” hotels watching…Good time….  Well this morning it was time for the “kids” to say good-bye.  9:30 breakfast, one more Banana ride, shaking of hands and hugs around to those at the Sand Bar, Ricardo and Suzie’s place, and finally here at the coach. 

Tonight it’s quiet…Louise is back on her computer, Lois (Great Grandma) is playing solitaire at the table, and me….writing of course…

18 February ‘07

Sunday

Some of our family has arrived….Mikleane, Ric, Louise, and Drew flew in Friday afternoon and then on top of that, Mike, Whitney, and Maddie Pierce, along with one of Maddie’s girl friends, Sierra is here at their time-share.  They arrived to spend a couple of weeks with their folks Bonnie and Doug Rohrer (they are part of one of our “adopted families” from our Coeur d’Alene times).  Now we are all running in “high gear” just trying to accomplish all they want during their vacation.  Naturally the beach is high on the list of daily “must do’s”, and then there is 9:30am breakfast at The Sand Bar, a swim in the pools at Club Cascadas or the beautiful Cabo bay.  Then of course it leads to a shopping trip into San Lucas for the things the kids are looking for (Bobble head Turtles for Drew and a beach cover-up for Louise).  All of our lunches, in-between snacks, and drinks are taken at the Sand Bar, Cascadas (the kids timeshare), and/or Tabascos on the beach next door.  Today top adventure was “Parasailing”.  Ric negotiated a good deal for parasailing, so off we went.  After a short boat ride out to more of an open area to fly, Mikleane donned all the gear and was soon heading up into the blue skies above.  While she was up there enjoying the solitude and the view, she waved down to us that there were whales out on the horizon.  The whales are definitely back for their annual visit.  Next it was Lil Louise and Drew that would be hoisted skyward.  After they were attached to the parachute the line was slowly let out from the stern of the boat.  At first they hover close to the rear of the boat and then slowly start their climb.  When they reach the summit of their climb, it was time for them to relax and let both hands go free and act like birds around them…  They were both excited with their ride.  Then it was back to the beach, more food and drink, and a little TV time watching the finish of NASCAR’s Daytona 500…what a finish!!!  Tonight we ended up heading out for a hamburger.  I was introduced to this little hamburger stand about the first day we arrived here in Cabo, and I have been back many, many times.  It is a small cart that this couple brings out every night and set it up right next door to the police station.  Most of the diners are the “locals”, but the more I eat there, the more “gringos” I introduce to this incredible hamburger.  Tonight it was time for the family to enjoy and enjoy they did…nothing but great reviews from one and all.  

10 February ‘07

Saturday

The sun is shining and the temp is rising…Heck, another beautiful day here in Cabo…

There is a window sticker here that says “No Bad Days”, and I almost believe it.  Not too much has changed as far as our daily routine goes, but today, after checking the waves coming onto the beach, we pulled the kayak out of the car.  This was the first time since we arrived in Mexico.  Some things that are immediately different are the large area of sand.  That gives us a positive, we can pull the kayak easily to the water instead of carrying it.  The negative we have to learn to conquer is getting into the kayak at just the right moment to have the wave take us out with it.  Then there is the coming back…hitting the wave just right so that we will “surf” up to the sand and then have enough time to get out and stabilize ourselves before the next wave comes in, fills the kayak and dumps us on our bum in front of all the beach bathers watching.  We put in just beside Club Cascadas and paddled around past all the hotels and restaurants.  Then around past the entrance to the marina and out to “Playa del Amor” (Lovers/Divorce Beach).  Lovers Beach is located at the very end of the Baja Peninsula.  Lovers Beach is then tied to Divorce Beach by a common sand bar.  On the Pacific Ocean side the waves come onto the beach with a large cresting wave and crashes with so much force that it almost rocks the large rocks around it while on the “Lovers” side (the Sea of Cortez) the wave action is very calm.  Well anyway, we made our first stop at Lovers Beach.  We went surfing in with the wave beautifully, but then as I got out my paddle got stuck between my legs and damn near took me down.  If I had gone down, the kayak would have come over me and that isn’t what a “graceful” landing is supposed to look like. Fortunately I recovered just in time and saved face.  After enjoying both sides of the beach we pulled out to see the famous “Cabo Arch” and then around the end of the peninsula (now into the Pacific) just to say we had been there.  The winds had come up quite a bit so the surf was becoming more pronounced and our ride was comfortable but more strenuous because cause of the additional hard paddling we had to do.   Getting back across the opening of Cabo Bay proved that we could make it through moderate boat traffic (the fishing boats coming back) and facing a pretty good head wind that seemed to stay close to the water.  Each paddle that Louise made brought water up and all over me, which kept me cool while again asking, “can you keep your paddle a little lower?”.  Wanting to time ourselves, I checked my watch…1:10 pm.  Arriving back at our starting point, surfing the wave in, handling my exit like a pro, we finished our paddle like we knew what we were doing.  Checking my watch again I found out that it was no longer running…what is this??? 

07 February ‘07

Wednesday

OK, now I’m getting pissed… I just went to the doctor for my follow-up.  I’m feeling a whole lot better now, although I still have a lingering cough.  Louise is still hammering on my back (I think she is beginning to like that a little too much, and with all the mumbling under her breath of: “I told you, you….(something I can’t quite hear) going on), and giving me orders of “have you taken all of your pills yet?”.   Hell, leave a guy that’s down a little room would you…  Anyway I went back to see the doctor this morning.  A quick re-exam and the good news was: “you seem to be healing quite well, but here are some additional pills to take for another week…and, “Oh yes, here is a bill for the new drugs as well” ($75)…  Lou is still trying to tell me it is a great value, and “you are getting much better”…in other words: GET OVER IT !!! 

I’m really not complaining, fact is I am much better.  I just want this all to STOP NOW…I WANT A BEER!!!  Yep, no beer, no wine, nothing but water…”DOCTORS ORDERS”. 

5 February ‘07

Monday

The sun is shining and I’m “confined to quarters”….  Hell this ain’t no fun !!!   I went to the doctor and after giving him my symptoms, he gave me an examination and  announced that I had a “lung infection”.  Hell, I thought it was just a cold that had gone amuck…  Now my schedule is somewhat limited for awhile.  I get up, take a few pills, drink some meds, get a “hammering on my back” from Louise, and then “stay inside the coach” for the next couple of days.  After that I can wonder outside…just under our canopy for the next couple of days.  Eat lots of veggies, “bistec” (steak) and “pollo” (chicken), and LOT’S OF WATER…  It was amazing, we called this doctor on his cell phone, set up a quick appointment (2 hours hence), and he meets us at his office.  He walks into the next room (his personal retail and wholesale pharmacy) and brings back with him a supply of prescribed medications.  He gives me the instructions and we set up a follow-up visit for next Wednesday…”some time in the morning”.  All of this cost me $107.  The meds alone were $85 (and that is at the low cost here in Mexico), and the rest???  It was his “office call”….and to top that all off, it was SUNDAY !!!  Hell I like it down here… 

31 January ‘07

Wednesday

This is all I needed….I’ve been on the road traveling now for right on 4 years and now I’ve caught something besides a cold.  Louise and I both got our flu shots before leaving Idaho in October, but now I apparently have something that is a mix between a cold and the flu.  Oh well, I wont go into the specifics of my problems, but to let the family know that it’s been just 3 days and I am definitely on the mend.  Fortunately for Louise (and me) she is still feeling great.  The gal that was camping next to us seemed to have this same thing a week or so ago, and Kathy (of Phil and Kathy Lublin and have their motor home just up from ours…) seems to have caught this as well.  For right now we’ll call it the “Cabo Bug”.  One thing for sure, it has slowed our socializing down to a stall…  Phil and Kathy joined us for breakfast on Monday morning and then we were going to explore San Jose together.  About the time we got to San Jose and parked, I was telling everyone that I was going to be a party pooper and head back home.  That’s about how fast it came up on me.  One thing for sure, I want this over before the family gets here on the 16^th for their week of “Cabo”.  Tuesday was a busy day here in the campground as one of the major RV caravan groups showed up.  25 large RV’S pulled in all at once.  It was interesting to watch the young men from the campground directing these big rigs into their spots and keeping everyone happy while doing so… They did a great job.  Tomorrow morning all of them will be pulling out and heading towards San Diego.  They started their trip in Texas, went down and put their RV’s on a train and went through the Copper Canyon, drove to the ferry to cross the Sea of Cortez, and then drive Hwy 1 to here.  Now they will all have to cover the Baja peninsula and all those very narrow road miles to California, and all as a group…should be fun. 

27 January ‘07

Saturday

Our time over the last few days has been spread between San Jose Del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas.  We are either heading to the grocery store, a new “taco stand”, or the “playa” (beach) for the day.  Now on Thursday our plan takes us north about 40 miles to Todos Santos and a visit with Frank and Lynn.  Bonnie picked Louise and me up early in the morning so that we would have a full day to visit.  There have been times in the past that told us that we should pack to stay the night, just in case we have partaken with the tequila “worm”.  Pulling up to the gate we found their truck was gone but Frank was busy getting ready for a cooking class.  It seems that Lynn was showing the new “students” how to find their way to the class (their home).  Frank insisted that we stay, in fact he immediately started a full blown breakfast for us to make sure that we stayed long enough for Lynn to get back.  It wasn’t long and we hear the two vehicles pull up and the “crowd” coming through the gate.  3 couples were to complete their class this day.  Normally the class will last for a week, but this one was a favor for Lynn’s sister and as it worked out, a perfect time for us to visit.  Their classes are a “Hands On Culinary Adventure In Mexican Foods”….COOKWITHUS.COM.  We had been hearing so much about their school and now we would get a front row seat in watching it work.  The program was already set by the “class” by putting together the menu for which they would prepare.  The 3 of us tried to stay out of the way, but were always dragged back in to be a “taster-sampler” or even a go-fer to the little mini mart next door.  I kind of made myself the official photographer for the day, taking enough pictures to sink a battle ship.  In taking that position, I made it perfectly clear that I gave no guarantee on how any of my pictures would turn out.

 Lynn got all the students immediately into their aprons and made sure that they had a sharp knife in their hand.  Now the fun starts, Frank is busy mixing the first batch of “Special Margaritas” and passing them throughout (even to us) while at the same time helping Lynn explain how to dice the tomatoes, onions, or what-ever else needed dicing prior to cooking.  From the salads, to soup, ceviche, empanada, and much more…it was a feast set before us that was sooo tasty, and I was just a guest.  Then while the “students” are sat before all their personally made food, a Mariachi Band showed up.  The “students” (the 3 couples) were great fun and now with this Mariachi band, Franks margaritas, and Lynn directing and demonstrating the dancing, it was time to really let go and enjoy the people and the surroundings here in Todos Santos.  I took time out to take a walk down to the beach and watch the whales as they played out in the deeper waters in front of us.  When I got back I found that the 3 couples had left and that the “real party” was about ready to start.  The Mariachi band had also left but I was told to grab a glass and “let’s go next door” to the mini-market.  The store is owned and run 24/7, 12 hours a day by “Chito”.  We hadn’t been in the store more than 4 minutes and Chito had strapped on his accordion, while sitting on his chair behind the counter (which is the only place I have ever seen him..), and we were all dancing through the aisles of his store.  From dancing there, we danced our way back to Frank and Lynn’s and continued on to the late evening.  Frank invited me to go fishing with him in the morning, so I had set my mind to wake up early so that I would have what it takes to fish with the “master of the hand line”. 

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God, another one of those 6am fishing obligations…    Getting to bed after 1am and now getting up 5 hours later…hell, I should know better, but I’m “on vacation” and loving it.  Frank had coffee made, knocked on the door, and we were off to hopefully catch our fish.  Last night I bought a “special” fish lure that Chito made.  It weighs about a pound and is made out of a Toyota chrome bumper…it is almost guaranteed to catch fish.  Frank fitted me with 2 rubber “finger protectors”, one for each index finger.  These are used to protect the fingers from being cut when the line is tossed out into the ocean and then again when the line is retrieved with or without fish fighting from the end of that new lure.  Now with a piece of wood wrapped with 50 lb line and my new lure in place, we unwind about 100 yards onto the sand and make sure that I don’t find myself standing on it.  I grabbed the line about 3 feet from the lure and started swinging it around my head…harder, harder, and then with a quick release it flies out beyond the first set of waves with a slight splash.  Now after searching for the line running out from the sand under me, I pull the line back to the beach, hand over hand and hoping that I feel the pull of a fish as I do.  It’s dark when we start so it is really tough to find the line running across the sand, but as it gets lighter and the sun rises, my job gets easier.  The only problem is, I’m getting tired…fact is, this whirling the lure above my head and the retrieving of the line back to the beach was getting to be a lot of hard work and I’ve decided to leave this type of fishing to those that really enjoy it or have a better knack of twirling… 

18 January ‘07

Thursday

Tuesday we drove up to Los Barriles (about 65 miles north) to see Neil and Lisa (who a couple of days ago left San Lucas for Los Barriles).  This also gave Louise and me the chance to see this part of the country again.  It had been about 6 years or more since we were last there.  As San Lucas and San Jose, Los Barriles is exploding.  New homes, condominiums, and commercial buildings are everywhere.  The last time we were there, they still had the dirt air field in front of the hotel, but now it is nothing but buildings, a park or green grass.  After finding Neil and Lisa all settled into their coach we also found a couple that we were camped next to at Imperial Dam in Arizona.  Lisa had heard about this “great little restaurant” that we should check out for lunch, so that off we went.  In pulling into the parking area (of course it was all dirt and the restaurant was an open palapa) we saw John, our neighbor back in San Lucas, just finishing up his lunch.  John is the guy whose birthday we celebrated on the 5^th.  He had come up to check out his next stop after he leaves Vagabundos in San Lucas.  Our lunch, well it just didn’t measure up to the hype.  After finishing up with lunch and saying good bye to John, we headed out to Cabo Pulmo, about an hours drive south along the coast. A number of years ago (about 15) Louise and I joined Bonnie and Doug and camped just south of Cabo Pulmo.  We wanted to check that location out because of the great memories we both had.  Unfortunately, with the weather pattern that we have found ourselves in, it was very windy, cold as heck, and intermittent rain so we only spent a couple of minutes and headed back to Los Barriles.  Yesterday was “laundry” day and today, well we walked into town, had “brunch” at the Sand Bar and headed back to our coach.  Yesterday a small caravan of RV’s came into the park so Louise and I have been introducing ourselves around to the “newbie’s” and listening to some of their stories on driving the Baja. 

14 January ‘07

Sunday

Bonnie, Doug, Louise and I were invited over to Ricardo and Suzie’s this morning to watch the Sea Hawks in a play off game with Chicago.  Of course, like all gatherings for such an event, we had lots of food and drink.  The unfortunate part of this morning was that sometime last night someone decided to steal the ground wire from the electrical circuit that covers all the electrical needs for about 1/3 of the buildings here in the RV park.  In doing so, it took about 5 or 6 of the “casitas” and changed their electrical system from 120V to 220 V and blew out a number TV’s, computers, and microwave ovens.  Ricardo and Suzie lost one of each…up in smoke, literally.  The bedroom/sitting area of their casita was hit hard and fortunately the TV with the satellite system weren’t touched.  It’s the nuts to think that someone wanted this 100’ of copper wire so much that they would put themselves into danger while cutting the wire in the dark and then with destroying the personal property of those who own the casitas, all for about $100 with of scrap copper.  Undaunted, we continued with our “Play off Party” with extension cords running from one end of the park to the other so that those without power had what they needed.  PS, the Sea Hawks lost…27-24

13 January ‘07

Saturday

Yesterday Louise and I went into San Jose and then up the coastline a little further to see some of the development that is going on there.  Just north of the estuary they are building this huge marina development.  It includes very expensive homes and lots of condominiums.  Again, it brings up the question of “where is all the money coming from” to buy all this expensive real estate?  The roadways running through this development are far above what you normally see here or almost anywhere else we have been in the last few years  If the roads are an example of the homes to come, this is going to be “some place”.  Having fond memories of a couple of previous drives up in this area, we headed off to see “Buzzards”.  Buzzards is a restaurant and bar that has been here for a long time that has always given us a reason to come back.  It’s not bright and shiny but kind of reminds us of a place that was once just a “hippies” dream hideout right on the shore of the Sea of Cortez.  Later in the evening we drove to Bonnie and Doug’s condo in San Jose.  We were invited to dinner with them and to see Nacho and Rosio Lopez, whom we haven’t seen for 5 years.   18 years ago, Nacho and Rosio were our personal friends and personal guides on our 5 week “History trip through Mexico” (all that is another story).   

10 January ‘07

Wednesday

Neil and Lisa joined Ricardo, Suzie, Louise and me and drove up to Santiago and Agua’s Calente (the hot springs).  It took us just over an hour to get up there, but the drive was great.  As we drove into Santiago we were amazed at how clean and neat this little town is.  Compared to Cabo San Lucas and San Jose, this place looked like it was cleaned especially for us…it sparkled.  At the other end of the town is the zoo.  It to was well kept, but the animals that were there are still in need of more room but more than anything else, better health.  We all left a donation behind and then continued onto the hot springs.  It had been 15 years since we were last at the hot springs so the way out there was a little fuzzy.  From the zoo on, the roads turned from pavement to dirt, with intersecting dirt roads coming in from all directions.  And then there were the little casa’s, and rancheros along both sides of the road that made it very picturesque.  After driving about 5 miles out from the zoo I started to doubt my way to the springs so as we passed a small ranchero with a lady that looked like a “Gringo”, we stopped to ask directions.  Our directions were right on but about 1 mile short, but she apparently hadn’t had anyone stop by for so long she took the advantage to unload about everything that had been building up in her for the last year.  They say everyone has a story and she certainly has one to tell.  Listening for awhile, we were back on our way.  Finally the hot springs came into view.  Climbing out of the van, we all headed around the dike to see just how it had changed.  Someone had made this “private enclosure” along one side of the wall of rocks that kind of kept the hot waters trapped a little longer.  We all had to get in and test the temp and then do some more exploring of the area.  Neil and I took off up river to see if we could get to the falls that Louise and I had been to 15 years earlier.  With all the rains and hurricanes that have come through the area in that time, it had changed more than I had expected.  The hike over the rocks and the crossings across the river were much more than it had been, but the end result was the same….absolutely beautiful.  We made it back to the falls, totally about 5 of them, with deep green pools at the end of each one of them.  Neil and I were both caught up in the beauty of it all and time got away from us, so before the rest of the crew sent out the search and rescue crew we headed back with a ton of great pictures.  One of the other delights of this trip, no matter how often we have made it, is to stop by the Ploma Hotel for a great “Mexican” lunch.  As always, we had a most delightful meal in a wonderful atmosphere (a very old and charming hotel). 

6 January ‘06

I kind of glanced over the “Full Moon” bonfire the other night, so I thought I would just take this space to mention it one more time and put this picture in at the same time….

5 January ‘07

Friday

It’s been some more of the same for us.  The weather here in Cabo is still outstanding !!!  We’ve had the opportunity to wake just about every morning to the sun warming up to the highs for the day in the mid 70’s, while the evenings get into the low 60’s.  We’ve taken a lot of great walks, some down the beach and others into town or the neighborhoods.  Last night the campground celebrated the full moon by going to one of the beaches and having a huge bonfire cookout.  We all brought out the hotdogs with buns, and all the trimmings for the best hotdogs on the beach.  And then the desert menu…roasted marshmallows…  Not everyone at the campground made it, but we did have over 30 there to witness the full moon rise out of the Sea of Cortez.  It was like a huge ball of fire dripping flames back to the sea as it rose.  This morning we headed out to fill the car with gas and do a little shopping at Costco.  Then it was off to Chileno.  Chileno is one of our favorite beaches for swimming and great snorkeling.  Again we had a group from the campground to join in with.  The water was warm and snorkeling with all the fish is a wonderful treat.  We had ourselves covered with #30 sunscreen and allowed ourselves to run free all day, eating, drinking, swimming, and just having a great day.  Tonight we are having a surprise birthday party for our neighbor.  Unfortunately John lost his first and second wives and this is his first time on the road alone.   He is turning 79 tonight and we are grabbing some of our common neighbors and having a small celebration with cake.  Wish you could be here with us…

1 January ‘07

Monday

Louise and I would like to say Thank You to all of you who sent us all of the Holiday Greetings.  It was great to hear what has been going on in your life since we last saw you.  As always, Christmas was very good to the two of us.  We spent a quiet day hanging around the coach and then about 3pm we got together with 90 others here in the RV Park for a potluck dinner.   Saturday night, Ricardo and Susie had a large group over to their “Casita” (little house) for a very tasty Chile Verde dinner.  It must have been “tasty” because I think I had 3 large helpings…I guess I had 3 large helpings at the bar as well…well, that’s another story…  Then like magic it was New Years Eve.  The weather here in Cabo San Lucas is staying sunny and warm but it cools right on down in the evenings.  Last night we joined 5 other couples and went to the Sand Bar Restaurant for a great Lobster and steak dinner.  The Sand Bar was all decorated up in the “New Year” theme…very festive.  Our table was sat deep into the sand, about 20 feet from the small waves that come running up toward our feet.  A large bonfire on each side of our table, a live band playing great music, friends and “newbie’s to talk and joke with, and a wonderful celebration of the “Old and the New” to enjoy.  I had brought some fireworks from South Dakota for this day, and it was fun to watch Juancho and Doris’s son Max firing them off for us.  Ricardo and Susie suggested that we take cabs to and from the dinner, and that turned out to be a great suggestion.  We not only saw the Old Year out, we saw the New Year in for at least the first three hours.  Sleeping in this morning seemed to be the norm for just about everyone around here.  I don’t think I heard or saw anyone until after 11am.  That could be because I didn’t get out myself until then.  Louise and I told Bonnie and Douglas that we would be picking them up at the airport this afternoon, so after getting the car all washed up we headed out to the airport.  Their plane arrived on time but sat on the apron for another 50 minutes before heading in to the gate.  Oh well, its Mexican timing…all’s well and safe.

27 December ‘06

Wednesday

We celebrated Christmas once again here in Cabo.  I think the first Christmas we spent here was in 1988 and then the next 3 following years as well.  One of the celebrations was on Santa Maria Beach with the Chouinard family.  Then in 2000 we were fortunate to have the “Whole Dang Family” (15 of us) here for the Christmas season.  Someone might say that this is almost like a 2^nd home to us for Christmas.  2 years ago we spent Christmas in Meteora Greece and last year at Rhonda Spain… Were will it be next year?

We had a pot-luck dinner of turkey, ham, and all the trimmings here at the RV park with about 90 other campers.  About 6 we joined Ricardo and went over to the Tolson home for an after dinner cocktail and good conversation among good friends.  Just what Christmas is all about.  Yesterday and today we spent the morning close by the coach, with laundry being the main subject today.  About 2 this afternoon we went out to “Ship Wreck” Beach to check it out.  It has been a long time since we were last there.  In fact, Doug and Bonnie Rohrer used to camp right on the waters edge there.  That was about 1989 or 90, long before the 36 hole Jack Nicholas golf course and Sheridan Hotel were built on that site.  We did find the beach mostly in tack, but with the hotel and the golf course right in back, it seemed quite different.  It was great to get back out there.  This beach has a lot of perfect gold sand and beautiful rock formations that come right out of the water.  The waves today were a treat for those that love to body surf and the rocks are great for those of us that like to snorkel.  The fish seem to team around the formations close to shore.  It was getting pretty dark when we got back home so we opted to head out to find dinner on the street somewhere.  Our first stop was a taco stand that was next door to one of the busiest bus stops in town.  It was also one of the busiest businesses around.  Louise and I both had a couple of pork tacos that didn’t last 2 seconds on our plate.  That taste is so perfect…and then the Mexican condiments…incredible.  The ambiance was just what we were looking for…young man behind the counter, his wife waiting the little metal card tables that sit on the neatly swept dirt floors, and the pre-teen son washing the dishes from a pot that sits so high on the counter that he had to find a stool to stand on.  I wasn’t quite full, so we went out to find one more “hot spot”.  This second one was about 3 blocks out the back roads from town.  It was so full of customers that we just knew we had to stop and try what ever they were selling.  Louise had had her fill from the last stop so I was on my own.  It had been a long time since I had had a “torta” (Mexican sandwich) and this one was just as good as I had remembered them to be. 

22 December ‘06

Friday

We stayed close by on Wednesday and Thursday, did some carpet cleaning in the coach, shopped for a 5 gallon water jug and had a couple of great meals in town.  The Baja Cantina for lunch on Wednesday and one of our favorite taco stands for shrimp and fish tacos on Thursday.  Then on Thursday evening, we took one of the couples from the campground and headed out to see the sunset.  Unfortunately it was unimpressive…we were entertained by a young fellow that took his 4 wheel drive pickup too far into the sand.  At one time he even had the water coming up to the tires…so close to loosing it.  Finally with the help of the “authorities”, he got it out.  It just so happens that the beaches are out of bounds for all motor vehicles…turtle lying beds are all around…he got himself a big fine.  Louise has finished making her famous fudge.  All of this will be going to the campground “Christmas Dinner Party”.  I tried to talk my way into keeping a little for myself, but that didn’t work.  This morning (Friday) I had to get the heck out of bed by 5am.  I was invited to go fishing with Ricardo and Lee this morning.  5 years ago Louise, Leslee, Sid, and me met Ricardo (Richard) and his lovely wife Suzi at the Sand Bar restaurant and bar here on the beach.  If you spend a few minutes with this couple, you become immediate friends.  It just so happened that they have built their “Casita” here in this RV park and while walking around the first day we ran directly into them.  A day later Ricardo asked me to go fishing with him, so how could I refuse.  Ricardo brought his boat down from Oregon and this is going to be his first time fishing out of Baja.  Lee, another neighbor, has been many times, so he was going to be our “leader”.  We were fishing out by “El Faro Viejo” (The Old Lighthouse), which is about 5 miles up the Pacific coastline from San Lucas.  We were out there before the sun rose out of the Eastern Sea.  Ricardo was first to “hook-up”.  He caught a real nice Dorado, about 25 to 28 pounds.  Then it went dry for a couple of hours.  A couple of miles off to the South, we saw a number of other boats that were huddled around some sea birds.  This often means that there are fish in the area, so we headed over to see what was happening.  It wasn’t but a minute and I was hooked up, but this time it was with a Marlin.  I wasn’t too excited about it being a Marlin, as I knew I would just have to put it back, and besides the Dorado is sooo good, but that is what it was.  Now for the next 45 minutes it beat the hell out of me.  I must tell you, I am writing this with every bone and muscle in my body so tired that I’m not sure I will finish this journal tonight.  We hadn’t set up for Marlin, so the pole and the line that I was using was too small and light for this struggle so I had to finesse it the whole time.  When the struggle was over I couldn’t tell you who won, but this I know, I got it to the boat and was able to take the hook out of the bill.  I also got a picture of this giant.  Our guess for the weight was 120-130 pounds.  Was it worth it?  I’ll tell you tomorrow.  Tonight however, we did enjoy a wonderful dinner of fresh caught Dorado.

19 December ‘06

Tuesday

Put your walking shoes on baby, we’re off to do the town…  We left the car behind and headed off to get some good walking in.  To the center of Cabo San Lucas, I would say we are about 2 to 3 miles out, but that’s what we did, and then returned a little tired.  Its ok, we really needed to get out there and walk a little after riding so much since leaving Imperial Dam in Arizona.  The weather was great (75 degrees and sunny) and the town was alive with “tourists”.  There were 3 cruise ships sitting out in the bay, and I would guess that each of them disembarked 3-4000 people each.  A shopping holiday for each one of them.  For Lou and me, we had some walking to do.  There is this new “mega store” in town that we hadn’t been to yet…The City Club.  It is very similar to Costco but you don’t have to buy in the large quantities.  If you want “one”, you can buy “one”.  I love the concept.  Seeing as how we were not “members”, we could go into the store and look all we wanted.  “IF” we wanted to buy something, when we got to the checkout counter, they would charge us $1.  I think this is great !!!  Besides, they had the most perfect selection of perfectly grown and displayed lettuce I’ve ever seen.  We’ll be going back tomorrow, with a TRUCK.  Then it was a walk through the super mall, down and around the city moorage and onto the Baja Cantina for lunch.  We ate from the “Bar” menu and had a wonderful meal with drinks for less than $10.  Now, with a full tummy, and feet that are telling us “it’s hot down here”, we head back home.  Yep, it was a “walk”, but it was needed.  I think I heard a “sizzle” when I stepped into the pool here at the campground, but who cares??? 

19 December ‘06

Tuesday

Put your walking shoes on baby, we’re off to do the town…  We left the car behind and headed off to get some good walking in.  To the center of Cabo San Lucas, I would say we are about 2 to 3 miles out, but that’s what we did, and then returned a little tired.  Its ok, we really needed to get out there and walk a little after riding so much since leaving Imperial Dam in Arizona.  The weather was great (75 degrees and sunny) and the town was alive with “tourists”.  There were 3 cruise ships sitting out in the bay, and I would guess that each of them disembarked 3-4000 people each.  A shopping holiday for each one of them.  For Lou and me, we had some walking to do.  There is this new “mega store” in town that we hadn’t been to yet…The City Club.  It is very similar to Costco but you don’t have to buy in the large quantities.  If you want “one”, you can buy “one”.  I love the concept.  Seeing as how we were not “members”, we could go into the store and look all we wanted.  “IF” we wanted to buy something, when we got to the checkout counter, they would charge us $1.  I think this is great !!!  Besides, they had the most perfect selection of perfectly grown and displayed lettuce I’ve ever seen.  We’ll be going back tomorrow, with a TRUCK.  Then it was a walk through the super mall, down and around the city moorage and onto the Baja Cantina for lunch.  We ate from the “Bar” menu and had a wonderful meal with drinks for less than $10.  Now, with a full tummy, and feet that are telling us “it’s hot down here”, we head back home.  Yep, it was a “walk”, but it was needed.  I think I heard a “sizzle” when I stepped into the pool here at the campground, but who cares??? 

18 December ‘06

Monday

Sunday we headed off to do some shopping.  Our first stop, a little taco stand up the hill from here.  They were serving these wonderful marinated beef tacos.  They also had these large clay crocks that were filled with the sides.  One was onions, and three different peppers that had all been fried together to make this wonderful garnish.  Other was filled with beans, and the third with “salsas”…Let me tell you…I was in “Hog Heaven”…  Our second stop was Mega Stores (a huge grocery store) in San Jose.  We weren’t looking for much, but lettuce and other vegetables were high on our list.  We had a chance to visit this store when we met Bonnie and Doug last Friday, and thought this store would be high on our list to find what we wanted in both variety and quality.  Well, we thought it would anyway.  On closer inspection and shopping, we didn’t find anything on our list that we wanted to come home with.  Yes, we spent about $10 on something’s, but we were really disappointed.  Ok, let’s head back to San Lucas.  Now both of these towns here in “Los Cabos” have grown, more than you can imagine if you haven’t been here for a couple of years.  Not only the huge mega stores, but the individual homes, golf courses, hotels, condos (both timeshare and individual homes), and “traffic cops”.  Our next stop was Home Depot.  I needed to find some very long nails and an extension cord for the Christmas lights.  Found the cord but no nails…  Ok, onto Costco…you can never go to Costco without spending something, and this was the case this time around.  I can’t remember what we bought except a large container of mixed nuts…One more stop…Sorreanos.  This is another bigger than huge store that carries groceries, clothing and on and on…  Of course we spent a couple of Peso’s there as well.  I really don’t remember why, but the lines at all the tills were just huge.  They were running 28 tills and they were all packed with buyers wanting to check out.  5 years ago when we were there the store had just opened up and everything was well stocked and looking good.  Well today…we most likely won’t be getting back.  I know, it is the Christmas shopping time, but the disarray and the masses of people are just more than I want to punish myself with.  About 4 in the afternoon we shuffled ourselves back home, completely “shopped out”, but without anything either of us had had on our list, especially lettuce. 

16 December ‘06

Saturday

This morning we decided to take a walk along the resort beach and grab some breakfast at “The Sandbar” Restaurant.  It’s only been 3 years since we were last here and the changes along the beach are incredible.  Fact is, the changes in all of “Los Cabos” is startling…  It’s good to sit down for a great breakfast and be able to have your feet in the warm sand at the same time.  We also had a chance to see “Cheno” (the best waiter anywhere along the beach in Los Cabos).  We also had a treat just as we were finishing our breakfast…The whole Tolson family came in for their breakfast as well.  They all were looking great, and the kids, boy have they grown.  Max is now 13, Louisa is 15 and both are beautiful young adults.  Juancho and Doris are both looking great.  The every day stress of being in a number of very competitive businesses isn’t taking a toll on their lives.  It’s been a long time since I’ve sat at a longer breakfast…it was great to see them again.  For the past week or more, there has been either a strike or a shortage at the Pemex stations (gas/diesel) up and down the Baja.  When they are open the lines are staggering.  Finally this afternoon when I checked I found the lines to have disappeared, so after dropping Louise off at the coach, I ran up the hill to “filler up”.  When the tank was full and the pump had clicked off, I found that I had a problem…I forgot to pick up my wallet when I left the motor home…DAMN !!!  Now what???  This young man is very patient with me as I try to explain to him my dilemma.   “What if I leave my car here with you and I walk back and get my wallet???? Is that OK???”  I’m not sure even yet what he said but I was off on my walk back the 2 miles in 85 degree weather to get my wallet…  On the way back I got thinking…the coach needs gas too, so that will get me a ride back…the only thing is, the coach is all set up.  All 3 slides are out, the coach is up on the jacks, the canopy is out and locked, the “EasyBoy” chair is in place and the dishes and everything else isn’t packed for traveling.  Hell, I need a ride and the coach needs gas sometime…”PACK IT UP”.   Lou wasn’t a “Happy Camper”, but she did her best to help me out of this predicament.    

15 December ‘06

Friday

Our first full day in Cabo San Lucas.  We got an email from Bonnie and Douglas and they had said that they would be flying out of Cabo today, so we thought we would get up to say goodbye before they left.  Of course they weren’t home but we did get a hold of them by phone.  We arranged to meet them in San Jose for a quick lunch, saw their new condo, said our goodbyes and off they went.  They were heading to Mt Vernon for Christmas, but will be back here in a couple of weeks.  Then it was back to San Lucas.  We stopped by to see Ed Feinstein and Joanie to do some catching up, but Joanie couldn’t be found.  Eddie was working his tail off trying to keep everyone happy even if they had waited to the last minute to have him make up the jewelry for their Christmas gifts.  Oh yes, Eddie has himself a new dog. Then it was back to the coach and finish setting up.

14 December ‘06

Thursday

Yesterday morning we pulled out of LaPaz early and headed for Todos Santos.  There is this wonderful little “truck stop” that I have been going to for over 18 years.  It was first introduced to me by one of the other new salesmen from Club Cascadas, who being Mexican, he just knew that the food was going to be excellent. At that time, we were on our way to LaPaz to get our license to sell timeshare.  Since that time, I’ve been getting back to eat there any chance I get.  The first time there, they had dirt floors, chickens running in and out from under the tables, a couple of dogs laying around, and at least 4 cats rubbing your leg looking for a hand out.  Now, they still have that dirt floor but all the animals are either gone or hidden somewhere.  The food is still EXCELLENT and the service is great.  Louise started talking to a lady that seemed to be running the place and telling her how long we have been coming in.  She was very excited to hear that and insisted that there was to be no charge for our breakfast, even as I objected, she insisted even more… Pretty nice place and as always, great people…and as always, we will be back.  Another 10 miles down the highway we came to Todos Santos.  Frank and Lynn, from Coeur d’Alene Idaho, have a place here and about this time of year they are having their Gourmet Mexican Cooking classes.  We knew we would have a little trouble getting the motor home into their little neighborhood, so we found a place along side the main street in town and unhooked the “toad”.  Now we are ready for some 4 wheelin…  we found Frank and Lynn heavy into cleaning up their home after the summer storms, and with only a few more days to go before the people start to arrive for their classes, we didn’t stick around too long.  We told them we would try to help, but their answer to that was “believe me when I say we can do it faster by ourselves, but thanks anyway”…we’re gone…  Cabo San Lucas here we come. 

13 December ‘06

Wednesday

We decided to stay two days here at Bahia Concepción.  This bay is so beautiful, and we were able to put the coach into the most perfect spot, we decided we needed to stay an extra day. Unfortunately we weren’t able to put the kayak into the water because the wind was just too strong during the mid day.  That’s ok, we will be coming back here in late March and as much as we can remember the wind is almost non-existent.  The place that we stayed this time was Hotel Buena Venture.  It is a small single story “U” shaped building with a couple of individual bungalows on one side.  Out at the edge of the sand beach, are 8 locations that you can pull an RV in.  We chose the one that was right on the end and with the help of a rock projection into the bay we had the perfect spot to park.  The water completely surrounded us on three sides.  The Pelicans were well fed with little fish that schooled right in front of us.  We had quite a show for two solid days, but also felt sorry for those little fishes.  This morning after a quick cleaning of the Tracker battery terminal, we left at 10am and headed out for a long day on the road.  We covered about 280 miles in 6 ½ hours.  There were some very high mountain ranges to cross and of course the roadways continued to be very narrow.  Fortunately the traffic was pretty light.  I stopped twice to put $600 pesos worth of gas into the tank.  The prices we have paid for gas have been about the same as we paid in the states ($2.50- $295 a gallon).  The first couple of stops in Mexico we weren’t able to get regular, all they were pumping was the premium.  Who know why, but you get what you get…  Tonight we headed into LePaz to find a bank machine and have a light dinner.  I must say I still like LePaz, even though it is a large city.  The campground for the night is located 6 blocks off the main street and at the end of a dirt road.  There are no more than 12 RV sites here and they are very nice.  It is one of those little known locations and will stay that way unless they put some signage out there.  There wasn’t one sign, not even at the gate… We have also found it interesting that since we’ve been here in the Baja, we’ve met at least 6 or 7 campers that are from Europe.  Right here in this campground, there is one camping family from Germany and a couple with a VW campervan from Italy.  Of course, most of the campers that we have met since crossing the border are from BC Canada, even more than those from the states (they must like the narrow highway). 

11 December ‘06

Sunday and Monday

Sundays drive took us from Catavina, which is almost directly in the center of Baja Norta, along some of the straightest lengths of highway through the Baja and then with a slight angle we headed out to the Pacific coastline to our next over night destination “Guerrero Negro”.  Guerrero Negro is the place that Louise and I stopped twice, 5 years ago.  The first time, we took a tour into Laguna Ojo de Liebre, which is one of the locations here in the Baja where the female gray whales give birth to their young.  What an amazing place this is…we were in this little 24’ boat with our guide just watching those that were watching us.  These whales would come out of the water, roll over on their back, and then splash back with a title wave.  Then there was the whale that would come straight up out of the water until their eye could get a clear shot of all around them, and then just hold that position for the longest time.  Finally there was the “friendly whale”, this little (about 40 to 50’ long) gal would come over and want her back or tummy scratched.  Well, that was then and this is now…no whales here yet, but the food at the campground is way above average and the campground is in the right location for this leg of the trip. I think there were 9 different rigs here last night, 3 from BC, one from Germany, 2 from Seattle, and the rest…?  10am and we were all packed up and heading into town to top off the gas tank.  The problem was, we couldn’t get into the pump island, so we made one of our famous “U” turn and headed out onto the highway.  We knew or hoped that somewhere out there we would find some petrol.  Out of 75 gallons, we had just about half left (or at 7.5 miles to the gallon and 30 plus gallons…).  On top of that, we knew we had some heavy mountain roads to work with today so we had better find some before long.  A couple of hours later we found our gas station, one that we could fit into.  This isn’t normally a problem, but in some of these smaller towns it can be.  Our trip today took us back across the Baja once more.  We had the flat lands at the beginning, but as the day got past hour 4, we headed into mountains.  It was a slow climb in the beginning, but then it got real serious.  Just as we saw the Gulf of Mexico, we started our first major decent.  Now this is a decent…it was almost like riding one of those roller coasters were you can’t see anything but the top of the hill and then it goes into this void, or straight down…Not only does it go straight down, it goes down while at the same time spinning like a top.  Oh yes, remember those narrow roads with those big honking trucks…it’s all still here…  Just after coming out off the top of that bluff, we arrived in Santa Roselia, which is located right on the Gulf.  Finding a place large enough to pull off the road, we put together a well deserved turkey sandwich.  Then, out of nowhere, came this young man.  His English was better than my Spanish and I think most of all he was lonely and just wanted to be friendly, but then when Louise came out to tell me that my sandwich was ready, he asked “can I have a sandwich?”…Louise was quick with “Do you like turkey?”…the rest is history…  Lunch finished, we headed on down the coast to Mulegé and then onto Bahia Concepción and our next camping spot. 

It has really been evident that the Baja has had some heavy and late rain this year.  The entire desert is green and blooming.  The last time we were here, the palette has changed from the top of the mountains to the edge of the roadways, the colors of the small flowers, the many greens of the bush, cacti, and trees is amazing.  Now here in Mulege which is most always green we see a lot of damage from the last hurricane.  Fact is, there is still a lot of water coming out of the surrounding hills.  Even the little spit that we were going to make our campground is unobtainable to us because of the rough roadway.  We tried it first with the Tracker and soon found out that it just wouldn’t be the best idea to try it with the coach.  So here we are sitting at the waters edge in front of a small hotel.  The spit would have cost us about $6 and this is costing us $20…both with out hook ups.  Oh well, it is still absolutely beautiful. 

10 December ‘06

After leaving Ensenada we continued heading south on Hwy 1.  Now we were in the hunt for our next campground, and hoping that we would find it before dark.  Louise was going through all the books, gathering the campground information for the next 50 miles ahead.  Finally we chose one that was off the highway about 8 miles and on the Pacific shoreline.  As we approached the area for our right turn towards Punta Banda and our next campground Villarino RV Park.  It was nice to get away from the heavy traffic of Hwy 1 for a while.  This little road that heads toward the coast is used little and the campground was left pretty much for just us and one other motor home.  We pulled up next to this wall of Plexiglas screening that allowed us an unobstructed view out to the sea.  There must have been room for another 50 or 60 RV’s, but we were to find the place to ourselves for the night.  All we heard throughout the night was the waves crashing on the beach…not too bad.  The next morning we pulled up stakes about 10 and headed back to that wonderful Mexican Highway 1.  Finally leaving the outskirts of Ensenada, we were on our way.  Now the road didn’t change much, but the view did.  I personally didn’t have much time to look, but when she felt it appropriate, she filled me in on what I was missing.  There is no doubt that there is a big difference driving a motor home on these roads vs. driving a Chrysler mini-van.  Prior to leaving, I had talked with a number of people about this drive and they all warned me about the truckers, the corners, and the narrow roads without shoulders.  Let me say this…you don’t want to get off on the shoulder.  Unfortunately, I did twice and it was a struggle to bring it back safely.  The day on the road wasn’t too terribly long, but it seemed like a century by the time we found our next campground.  About 4 we pulled into Catavina and our next place to stay.  This campground had no hook-ups, but that didn’t matter because “we have solar” now…

It was located about 2 miles into the hills and was nothing but a huge dirt field that had two large trees and a small ranch that the owners lived in.  It cost us $6 for the night.  We are in the Catavina Boulder Fields, and let me tell you, these huge boulders are everywhere.  It goes for miles on miles, even with large hills stacked 100’s of feet high with these boulders.  And the cacti seem to grow directly out of the solid granite rocks.  It is quite a beautiful site.  After kicking ourselves out of bed prior to 8, we headed out into the boulder fields for a short hike before breakfast.  Getting the “up and close” look at these “boulders” was incredible.  Now for the second “incredible”…we chose to go to the campground restaurant for breakfast.  Now you’ve got to understand, this is not the usual “restaurant”.  There is no electricity, no water, no fancy dishes and silverware, and “instant coffee” is the norm.  BUT, the huevos rancheros were to me, one of the best I’ve have ever had… what a teat. 

8 December ‘06

It wasn’t long after leaving El Centro, that we got a good idea of what it was going to be like driving on the other side of the border.  After leaving Interstate Highway 8 from El Centro, we turned south onto CA 94 which took us to the border crossing at Takate.  It was a beautiful drive, with narrow roads that kept us on our toes, trees that sometimes made us duck, and the curves…well it was exciting.  When we approached the border, we found that we were only one of many that were to cross this early Friday afternoon.  In front of us were 12 to 15 semi trucks that seemed to move very slowly, then there was the cars…they came out from around us like someone had pulled their chain, and rushed through without any “wait time”.  The problem was, they had to move into on-coming traffic to do this and I didn’t feel we could do the same quite as gracefully or get away with it.  Well after 10 minutes of waiting and 50 cars going by, I bit the bullet and said “we’re going”…Pulling out wasn’t a problem, it was having all the cars and trucks now coming at us in “their” lane.  This must happen all the time, as they all went off to the shoulder or slithered by us with out giving any kind of “jesters” to us.  Crossing through the gates was a test as well…they were a tight fit.  Not only were the gates tight, the streets in front of us as we continued through Tecate were just as tight.  We even had to pass cars and small delivery trucks that were double parked on these narrow streets.  There was a lot of knuckle biting going on, and oh yes, Louise had to shut her eyes a couple of times (damn glad she wasn’t driving).  Going across the border was no big deal as there was only this stop and go signal that stayed green all the time, so we just continued through without any questions or regulations.  Then it was onto Ensenada down highway MX 3.  This route took us through a number of mountain passes that were filled with hairpin turns and steep climbs and steeper drops into the valleys below that are filled with grape vines on the wires and the large wineries.  All that we have heard and read about the narrow roads without shoulders is absolutely TRUE…  You really notice it when you’ve got a large truck coming at you and he is hugging the shoulder, as you are trying to do, and you’ve just missed each other as he passes.  Coming over the last pass, we find the Pacific Ocean out there in front of us and Ensenada all along the coastline.  Now it is time to find the Immigration Office.  Fortunately, about 5 years ago, we had to find this same office, so I thought we just might be lucky enough to drive right to it.  Luck was with us two different ways…one, we drove directly to it, and two, there was a parking spot right at the front door that would handle both the coach and the toad…”Can You Believe This (that)?”…  We grabbed our passports and headed right in.  Once inside we found out that about 2 years or so ago, they changed the procedures of getting the immigration papers.  Now you must get them at the border crossings…”Although”…you can get them if you pay a fine…hell, the fine was $5 and I sure as heck wasn’t going to go all the way back to the border….here’s my $5.  Well the whole bill came out to $10 dollar fine (Lou’s and mine) and $50 for the pass.  Now let’s get on the road and get to a campground.   The immigration office is located just a block off the wharf, the road is a wide two lane with a raised center divider.  We had to find a place to turn around, so a little way up the road, I found my place and made the big swing….”woops, we aren’t going to make it!!!”  Sure as heck, I had gotten myself into a position that I was now blocking just about all the lanes and can’t back up (you can’t back up with the toad attached to the back).  I jumped out of the coach with Louise hot on my tail, the keys to the Tracker in hand and heading out to do the quickest un-hitch you’ve ever seen.  Now if this would have happened in the States, I would have seen more “signals” and heard more horns a blowing…not here, they take this kind of stupid deal as possibly common place…no big deal.  I still didn’t hesitate, we were un-hitched and pulled away before the dust hit the ground from us getting out or the coach.  We can laugh about it now, but it wasn’t too funny then. 

29 November ‘06

Welllll, sometimes things just don’t work out too well, and this is one of those times.  We arrived promptly for our warrantee appointment, talked out the problems and what we thought might be the fix, and then left to let them do their work.  This is the day that we set aside to go back to Algadones Mexico and have our teeth cleaned.  We have talked with just about everyone we could find that has had some dental work done there so that gave us enough confidence to go on our own.  We left the motor home at noon, drove to Algadones and walked across the border, found a dentist that was recommended to us and got an immediate appointment.  Now try that at home…  I chose to go in first just in case, but as it was, it turned out to be a good experience for both of us.  Now it was time for the bill….$35 total…not too bad…  Now we have to wait 30 minutes before we can have one of those fabulous lunches we have been hunkering for.  After some “window shopping” for 30 minutes (and not a minute longer), we found our way back to the restaurant that we had enjoyed last time.  Now it’s time to head back and see how the work finished out on the coach. 

20 November ‘06

Una Cameron, Dos Pescado Tacos, Una Aqua Frio, Una Coka Diet por favor… Yep, we went into Mexico this afternoon, spent $4.30, and we had the most wonderful tacos… It has been sooo long since we’ve had that perfect taste of the Mexican Taco.  Algodones, Baja California is located just a few miles west, so we decided to go see what we have heard so much about.  It is a charming “South of the Border” village that got it’s recognition for being the “Dental Mecca” for those of us in the U.S. on a budget.  As we approached the border we were directed into a large fenced parking lot.  It is run by the Indian Reservation on this side of the border and makes it easy for those of us that want to walk into Algodones.  It is but a short walk to the center of town.  As soon as you cross the border you are met by young men trying to coax you to their dentist or druggist.  No matter which direction you took into town, you were right at the door of one or the other and this was to continue until there were no more blocks to walk.  Of course the colorful handicrafts of jewelry, pottery, glassware, clothing and more were available from the Mexican artists.  We also found the taco stand which was high on our priority list and after a long day of “shopping”, we found a second place to settle down for a Margarita and a great Mariachi Band.  Our quick visit to Algodones was just about finished, all that was left was a quick walk to the border, cross through the gates, find our car, and head back to the campground.  It was all too short a visit, but on the good side it we will be doing a second and possibly a third before too long.