20 March ‘07

Tuesday

Today we left Ciudad Constitucion and headed across the peninsula to Loreto.  Ciudad Constitucion is a medium sized town that makes its mark in agriculture.  For weeks now I have been eating great strawberries that have come from this area, and when in the grocery stores we pick up most of our veggies that were grown from here as well.  Also important to us, is this is the best place to stop and make sure that your gas tank is full.  It can be a long drive in either direction if you find yourself passing the Pemex Stations here.  When we make the right turn, after going through town, we start our ride on those narrow roads that have given the Baja its reputation.  Prior to this point, the roads were a mix of 2 lanes and 4 lanes all the way to or from Cabo San Lucas.  Yes, they were still a narrow passage way, but believe me when I say “Narrow” from now on.  The road is very straight most of the 83 miles across this part of the peninsula as well as a fare amount of road and bridge construction.  After we leave the farm fields we start to see the plains of scrub and small cacti until we start our climb up the foothills prior to the Sea of Cortez.  At that point we see again a change.  The cacti become very tall, with most being single stems that reach for the sky, and then there are others that put out an additional branch or two to add another character.  The dry scrub has changed from dead to green to complement the cacti and the dark rocks of the hills that are now growing into full sized mountains.  The climb is gradual although there is lots of hairpin turns.  When it’s time to make the decent to the sea, it is very steep.  Most of the time the transmission is in the lower gear range as we descend, and we needed the lower speed as we come into the corners that have no protective guard rails. One of my favorite sites is when we come around that last turn and right in front of us is this beautiful golf course and the town of Loreto.  Loreto was the first European settlement in the “Californias”, and the religious capital for 132 years.  This morning I was out for a walk about 7:30am and they were having a service in the Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto.  This chapel was first built in October 1697 and fortunately has been rebuilt many times keeping the original feeling as much as possible.  So much to see and so little time to do it.  Louise and I were first introduced to the La Picazon Restaurant in Cabo San Jose about 10 years ago.  They then moved to San Lucas a couple of years later.  Three years ago, they decided to move to Loreto.  Bonnie and Doug had given a good try to find them but failed…we, arriving today asked more questions and got some good directions.  Let me tell you, this was a challenge, but we did find them.  They are located north of Loreto about 5 miles, that is 5 miles on a dirt “track”.  Keeping strong to our desire to eat a great lunch, we kept on until we found them.  This little “restaurant” is now a “destination” restaurant.  The food is still great, the service is wonderful, and the family who owns and operates this operation are the best.  Now, the view and the décor…well, you’ve to see for yourself, it is too much and too good to describe. 

19 March ‘07

Monday

Yesterdays drive up to La Paz and Tecolate Beach was uneventful with the exception of the “Hot Rod” sound coming from underneath the coach.  The drive though La Paz was easy and then taking the road out past the ferry terminal and onto Tecolate was all new.  The road was a typical two lane roadway from here in Mexico, narrow, potholed, and a couple “deviations” before getting to Tecolate.  When we arrived we found that it would be to our best interest if we would unhook one of our cars and drive out onto the sand and check out if and were we could park the motor homes.  We found it wasn’t too much of a challenge, so we pulled out.  We wound our way around sand dunes and other motor homes and campers, a few tents and beach goers.  Finally we found a place that would work.  We pulled the two motor homes right onto the rocks that bordered to sand and the sea, we were finally here.  Getting ourselves all set up, jacks down, chairs out, and a sand mat laid out, we were ready to sit and relax with the Sea of Cortez at our door steps.  About an hour later we noticed that the wind would come up and throw sand all over us and then it would die down again.  This happened for about 30 minutes and then it got to the point that the wind and sand drove us inside for the night…Let me tell you, it was a NIGHT to remember…the wind howled and shook the coach so hard, and the sand was  pelting so with a rage that come morning we decided to GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE !!!  It was nasty.  In the morning it did die down, but we had had enough.  We were now on our way to Puerto Lopez Mateous (Magdalena Bay).  After stopping for gas and traveling across the peninsula, we found a campground just outside of Constituion.  This morning we headed out to Puerto Lopez Mateous to see if we could find the gray whales.  We left the motor homes behind and took Phil and Kathy’s Honda.  It was about a 45 minute drive.  Once there we contacted a tour guide that could take us out to see the whales.  The 4 of us and Fernando our skipper jumped into his “Panga” and headed out.  The boat ride took us out past this peninsula of sand that seemed to stretch for miles.  Just after rounding the end the sea got to swell and swell and swell…we were in for a “boat ride” to end boat rides.  The swells came from the bar that separated this peninsula from the Pacific Ocean, similar to the bar at the Columbia River.  Finally as we got closer to the bar it’s self, we were in the middle of the whales.  Big “Momma” whales and little “Baby” whales.  I don’t know how many we saw, but we had a blast over the next hour and a half, “WOW, LOOK !!!,  OVER THERE !!!!, It was amazing.  We also saw a group of porpoise that was following our bow.  On the way back, Fernando saw something on the sandy peninsula that he wanted to show us.  As we came to about 15 feet to shore and a group of small tree branches that were hanging out into the water, there on one of the branches was this little sea lion pup…Fernando made his tip on this trip !!!    

17 March ‘07

Saturday

After leaving Vagabondo’s RV Park in Los Cabos, we headed toward Todos Santos.  We are traveling up the Baja with Phil and Kathy.  They also have a motor home (36 foot Holiday Rambler) and they are pulling their Honda.  Our first stop for the night was a spot that is just 15 kms south of Todos Santos and one that is a favorite with surfers.  This is a “Free” camping spot.  It is located about ¼ mile off of Highway 1 and right on the beach.  The road coming in is packed sand and dirt and the areas that can hold the campers, is also solid ground.  Coming off the highway was quite an experience, as there is no shoulder, so you drop off about 6 or more inches from the black-top.  It is enough to make the coach moan and groan and just about everything sounds like it is going to come out of the cabinets. Soon we are settled, our jacks are dropped, the chairs are out, and a drink is in hand.  The surf is up and pounding…the sun is bright and we are waiting now for a magnificent sunset.  We did unhook Phil’s car and head into see Frank and Lynn.  Their home is in Todos Santos, but when we got there we found out that they were in La Paz until Sunday.  Frank hasn’t been feeling well, so we thought he might have gone up there to see the doctor.  Saturday morning we pulled the two coaches out of their spots and started heading to La Paz ourselves.   We were heading to Tecolate Beach, which is about 15 miles east of La Paz.  Driving out of the campsite here at “Surfers Beach”, was again riding all the sand  / dirt and bumps.  Just as I was pulling over that 6 or more inches onto the highway, I hit the bottom of the coach hard.  All of a sudden I knew that something was really hurt, I had no power to move forward and there was this terrible noise.  I, we were in trouble and I didn’t yet know why.  About 200 yards up the road I found a spot that was long enough for the two rigs to pull off the road.  I went back to tell Phil that something had happened and then I ran forward to crawl under my coach to find out what I could.  The first thing I saw was that the tailpipe and the muffler was completely wrapped around the driveshaft and rear axle…totally crimped in 4 places and not moving even a fraction of an inch.  Shoot !!!!  After climbing out and telling Louise, Phil and Kathy what I found, we ran through our options.  As it turned out, Phil and I jumped into my car and headed off to Todos Santos.  I was hoping to find some one who could come out and cut the tail pipe and muffler off.  This was no easy task.  Luckily Phil found this young man that was having a garage sale and asked him if he spoke any English…”Heck Yes Man, What Can I Do For You?”  He volunteered to help us out and find someone that could do the work for me.  He left his stuff sitting along side the road and got into my car and off we went.  We had been told about this fellow up and around the street, that did some welding and he might have what it takes to cut the pipe.  Thanks to our “volunteer” Miguel agreed to give it a try.  He put his electric saw into a case and got into my car.  Dropping off our “volunteer”, we were off.  About an hour and a half later, we were on our way back to Todos Santos to deliver Miguel back to his shop and pay his bill…$400 pesos = $40. Dollars.  I would have and thought I would have to pay 3 times that much.  Now back to the coach, grab a sandwich and coke, and we are now off to Tecolate Beach and with a new sound coming from under our coach…ROARRRR

15 March ‘07

Thursday

Well this is the last day…let’s get it all cleaned and packed up.  Most of the day was spent just doing that.  We did have a lot of friends dropping by to say good-bye and asking if we were to be back again next year…No, not next year but we will be thinking of all of you about this time then. 

Suzie and Ricardo have invited Phil and Kathy Lublin, Louise and me over to their “casita” tonight for dinner with some others that are also leaving in the morning.  It seems that this is the time of year, here in Cabo, that a lot of those that have been here awhile start moving north.  All of us had a great time and promised to keep in touch with each other.  Suzie and Ricardo, THANK YOU for being there for us and with us!!!

14 March ‘07

Wednesday

Wednesday morning we started in earnest to get ourselves and the coach ready for leaving…I worked on the outside by opening all the basement cavities, taking everything out, wiping the walls and floors down, and then restocking.  Louise was inside doing the same thing, opening all the drawers, cabinets, and closets and getting them looking like brand new.  Then at noon we both headed out to the airport to pick up Bonnie and Doug.  They were coming back from their “journey” up to Scottsdale Arizona.  Bon had to be air-vacked to the Mayo Clinic last Sunday morning and thank God she is OK.  It is good to have her back here in Cabo and being in great health...I think she was just looking for a first class ride in one of those fancy Lear Jets.  Wednesday night Lou and I had a great dinner with Ernie and Sheila Pontius.  We went to a great Italian restaurant that Ricardo and Suzie introduced us too,   Salvadores…the food is sooo good, but sooo much of it.  All of us split 2 salads, 2 main courses, and one Tiramisu.  I must say, we ate like kings.  Joannie Feinstein was there with some of her friends (clients), so we had a chance to visit with her for a couple of minutes as well.  Two unfortunate things about Salvadores was the service really needs help, and this band that comes in for tips only…they should be asking for tips to LEAVE !!!  We were really glad to get together with Ernie and Sheila, they are very special and great friends…

13 March 07

Tuesday

I’m going to go back to Monday night when Ricardo, Suzie, Louise and I went to dinner at Mi Casa after spending the day at the beach snorkeling.  We had planned to go to Miguel Locos but when we got to the front door it was all locked up and closed for the night…now what?  It didn’t take us too long to make up our minds.  Across the street and the town plaza sat Mi Casa.  The last time we had dinner there was about 10 years ago.  The décor is “Old Mexico” and it is wonderful to let your eyes just wonder from one vignette to the next, and the food…Outstanding !!!  This is a place that just makes you feel good, especially when you have great company to enjoy it with.  It has really been great to find Ricardo and Suzie again, and it will be tough to say good-bye come Friday. 

Tuesday morning we ventured down to the Sand Bar for breakfast and a chance to see all the guys that make the Sand Bar what it is once again...Chino, Able, Alfredo, Rodrigo, and Jesus.  Unfortunately things aren’t back to “normal”, but the court date is coming on Friday, let’s hope that settles it once and forever. About 5 this evening Sheila Pontius called and told us that she and Ernie had 4 free tickets to the New York Ice Show.  Ice show?...Here in Cabo San Lucas?...Free???...We’ll be there !!!  When Lou and I arrived we found Ernie and Sheila waiting out front of this large tent.  At that time, there were no more than 10 to 12 others standing around, but this was about 30 minutes before the gates opened and after all, it’s Mexico and Mexican time prevails…In the next 30 minutes the crowds grew to about 200 or so and the gates were opened.  Seeing as our tickets were “Free”, we were lead off by this young man.  To get to the bleacher section we passed through this maze of supports for the high priced seats and finally to the bleacher section…the “Free Seats”.  No sooner had we had the opportunity to see these bleacher you sit in those seats (pointing to the high priced ($15.00)) for $5.00 or you can sit on these (a 2X6 plank) for “Free”.  Well let me see…a 2X6 plank vs. a plastic seat with a back on it…and the show is how long???...HERE’S YOUR $5 !!!   After being seated in our new “Luxury Seats” and directly in front of the performers we were totally and enthusiastically entertained.  The show took on the New York Theatre theme, with dances and music from different Broadway shows.  We were also entertained with comedy and THE best juggler any of us has ever seen…what a show !!! 

8 March ‘07

Thursday

Things have gotten quite interesting here in Cabo San Lucas over the last few days.  I had mentioned the commotion at the Sand Bar Restaurant earlier, and was wondering how it might play out…well, it’s still playing.  Last Wednesday Louise and I were here at home and having a drink and conversation with Ernie and Sheila, when Ricardo came over and asked us to “rendezvous at the San Bar”.  “Juancho had called and asked all of us to come down and “”sit in at the restaurant and make a presence of ourselves…DO NOT confront anybody!!!”.  It was like calling out the troupes…we ALL headed off for our “assignment”.  It was amazing to watch.  Ernie, Sheila, Louise and I were the first to arrive and find the Sand Bar taken over by TWO LARGE TENTS and all the tables and chairs of the restaurant piled off to one small side.  We grabbed a chair and sat down as we were told.  We had no sooner found our chair and people were arriving to join us from all corners of beach.  In just a few minutes we were joined by many dozens of “sitters”.  We were told that there were some fellows that would be coming by soon and removing the tents, and then it would be our responsibility to move the tables and chairs into the original positions and SIT.  Well just as we had heard, out of nowhere comes this group of Mexican fellows (Big Mexican “fellows”).  As soon as they hit the ground, they had the two tents out and were on their way out of the area….BING, BAM, BING….   Well the guys that were manning the tent now were not too happy.  The first thing they did was to call the police.  The next was to look over the crowd and pick the ones that they thought might be the “ring leaders”… Ricardo and me….  Lots of things were said, tons of pictures were taken of the two of us (I’d like to get copies if someone has any…Please check the internet…), and it was heated.  Soon the police arrived from all the different authorities.  A judge was there, and an attorney for Juancho (who by the way wasn’t there), but not for us…(not that we needed one…).  After about 2 to 3 hours, all the authorities gone, the tents brought up to new locations (still in front of the Sand Bar and blocking the view to the water and the arch), everyone started to depart…no arrests, no one hurt, and really not much accomplished…  Juancho came by Thursday morning to say how much he appreciated all of our “help” and that apparently there will be a court hearing this next Thursday.  Well we will miss all of that, as we will be continuing our tour of the Baja as we head north

6 March ‘07

Tuesday

Our time here in Cabo is still nothing but great!  I can’t just write about the sand, surf, food, and great weather, but….  Yesterday was “The Full Moon Bonfire Party” again.  This was our 3rd and it produced quite a surprise.  Phil and Kathy’s daughters (Breanne) boyfriend Stefen, and I tried our hand at surf fishing.  We arrived at the same beach as the party was going to be held, about 2 hours early.  The fisherman had already started to arrive and we did notice that there were a couple of small fish already landed.  Excited about the “possibility”, we both readied our pole and cast to the surf.  I don’t know how many casts it took before I noticed the casting arm getting achy, but I continued on.  As far as Stefen, he decided that he had had enough at his first location so he moved further up the beach.  About the 3rd cast he felt that all important pull…FISH ON !!!  Once landed he proudly held up his prize…a huge Red Snapper !!!  What a catch.  As he walked the beach heading toward the RV crowd at the bonfire, he was the man of the hour.  There wasn’t a man there that wouldn’t have loved to have caught that fish, including me.  Luckily I brought my larger cooler half filled with ice so Stefen could keep his fish fresh.  For me and Louise the prize was our invitation to a great fish dinner the next night.  I kid you not, this was THE best fish dinner I have EVER tasted…Thank you Stefen and Breanne (who made up 2 different spreads) for that incredible night.

3 March ‘07

Saturday

Phil and Kathy Lublin picked us up this morning.  It is “Market Day” in San Jose…  It also is getting to be a social gathering place…3 couples from here at the RV Park, Bonnie, Doug, and Rodger…oh yes, and us…  Quite honestly, when I go it is because of  the streusel, coffee, and tamales.  These tamales are a little different as they are wrapped flat and in a banana leaf.  Now for the rest of the crew (although I noticed all the guys  kind of following my lead), they were after the organic veggies and such…  Louise and I bought our tamales for tonight.  Tonight is supposed to be a total eclipse of the moon as it rises out of the sea, so we wanted to be prepared and well fed for such an occurrence.  Phil and Kathy were expecting their daughter and son-in-law this afternoon from Ottawa, so after dropping us back at the coach they went off to fetch the kids at the airport.  Louise and I went to the beach to soak up a little more sand and sun and have lunch with our feet dug deep in the sand.  About 5, we all took off for the beach to watch the moon rise and be a part of this total eclipse.  There were about 8 of us there as the moon began it’s rise upward….what, what happened to the eclipse???  It didn’t happen…apparently it happened somewhere else in this whole wide world, but not here.  We were ready…warm night, quiet surf, chairs, blankets, cameras, binoculars, food and drink…but what about the moon???  It didn’t show.

2 March ‘07

Friday

Louise and I have had limited exposure here in Mexico, even given the fact that we lived here in Cabo San Lucas for 3 plus years and have been back many times.  Having had said that, it still grinds me the wrong way when I see certain things that go totally under the covers because some person or persons in power receive “mordida” (MONEY). 

Going all the way back to 1988 and then again right this moment someone in one of the police departments is receiving “mordida” to allow the taxi and truck drivers to drive in total abandon.  The taxis aren’t near as bad as those trucks, but their bad enough.  The prime danger comes with the dirt and water trucks.  Because of the incredible growth here in Los Cabos, there are trucks everywhere handling the movement of rock and dirt.  These vehicles would find it impossible to pass an inspection, but they are still out there.  Louise and I have been walking down the sidewalk and have a passing fully loaded dump-truck blow a tire.  This is a common accordance.  Every time we pull up next to a truck on the road, we would be dumb-struck if it had tread on anyone of the tires.  They are so over loaded that the rear axles bend like a “lazy U”.  They travel fast…VERY FAST…and they are in love with their “Jake Brakes”, even when the roads are filled with signs that tells them that they are “ILLEGAL”.  As you are coming down the hill from Todos Santos, you have to pass a hospital, and there must be 6 or 8 signs telling the truck drivers that it is a “QUIET ZONE” … Jake Brakes are ILLEGAL….well, you guessed it…  Hell, the highway out in front of this RV Park is so noisy with those brakes that there are times when you have to stop your conversation with your neighbor because they are so load.  The other day I went to the owner of the park and mentioned that I was surprised that the police wouldn’t use the Jake Brakes as a way to fill their pockets…”a truck comes down or up the hill blaring the brakes and “wham”, you have a fine”…more money in their pockets, personal or…  But no, they pay it up front (mordida) to the “big guy” so they can go about their business without being hassled.  These people have to live with this, and quite honestly, they accept it.  It used to be that the only paved streets in Cabo were those that the mayor and police chief lived on…I’ll bet that hasn’t changed much either.  Those big resorts on the beach and some others have been trying to force Juancho and Doris out of their beach front restaurant/bar for sometime now.  Well, their back at it.  Somehow, this last Wednesday a large tent was set up right in between the restaurant and the water.  The tent is so close to the beach chairs, that there is no room to get into them.  The view out to the water is lost, and now you have 6 to 8 jet-skis sitting in its place.  SOMEONE IS BEING PAID OFF !!!