_31 January 2010 This morning Louise and I walked the mile and a half to the “muelle” (dock) and caught one of the morning blue and white 40’ long water-taxi’s for a 30 minute ride to the Isla Janitzio (you can see the island at Google Earth coordinates of :  19.57361°N 101.65194°W ).

The town of Janitzio, which means “where it rains” (hell, does this mean that Seattle has to change its name ????) can only be reached by boats.  The water taxis run from a number of locations around the lake, but the primary departure location is from the embarcadero (pier) here in Patzcuaro.

_The Isla of Janitzio is famous for the “Butterfly” fishermen who are skilled at lowering their butterfly-shaped nets to catch the local “pescado blanco”. 

_Fact is that’s exactly what Louise and I had for lunch and it was very tasty…  I read that the butterfly fishermen are also located on the back side of the 50 peso note…how interesting.  Besides the butterfly fishermen being a draw to the island, there is a 40 meter (132 feet) statue of Jose maria Morelos.

_He was and still is a great hero of Mexico’s independence.  This statue was started in 1933 and has been a major draw for the Mexican tourist ever-since.  It sits at the very top of the island and can be seen from just about any point around this huge lake.  You can climb to the top of the statue by way of a staircase that spirals up the inside.

_Most of the interior walls show the life of Morelos in murals painted by Ramon Alba de la Canal and others.  The murals are great works of art but are also is a good Mexican history lesson.  Once you finally reach the top of the statue (which the last few yards are climbing through a narrow staircase up the raised arm to his wrist) you can peer through “peepholes” (areas with just enough room to get your head through) to view the spectacular view of the island, lake and the surrounding villages and towns around the lake.

_Some of the people of Janitzio and the towns surrounding  The island is a primary location for the variety of handmade textiles and artwork being sold around this area.  There is one time that I think would really be interesting to be around the island.  That is when they celebrate the “El Dia de los Muertos” (Day of the Dead).  Part of this festivity are the candlelit boat processions that make their way to the island and then to Janitzio’s church and graveyard (jeeezzz, I missed getting the picture of this cemetery, it was really very pretty).  After remaining there for the night and enjoying the large festive vigil, we can only imagine the “imbibing that was and is involved…what a party!!! 

We had heard that once you depart the boat, you start your hike…STRAIGHT UP HILL!!!!  That is no bull, and if you remember, we’re at 7200 feet already…PUFF PUFF.  Well I think we did really well.  Did we have to stop and catch our breath??? Oh ya, but not all that many times.  Almost every step you took would land you in front of another little shop

_that was always there ready for your break.  It’s amazing how many little shops that are selling just so many of the same products can survive through the day.  I’m afraid we didn’t help the economy of the island much…$40 pesos each for the found trip taxi ride, $6 each for entry to the statue, and lunch of $100 pesos ($8 US)…That was our full day today, and it was really enjoyable.  Oh yes, I forgot to mention the entertainment we had throughout the day…  First, on every water taxi there is a group of musicians to entertain you while crossing the lake, and then as we arrived at the statue, we were met by a group of young dancers.  They were portraying the “Old Man Dance”…

_We’d seen that once before on our first trip through the mainland of Mexico in 1990 and enjoyed it then as well…what a treat!!!

_29 January 2010 Waking this morning at 48 degrees was somewhat a little shock, as for the last 2 ½ months it’s been no less than 68 degrees.  The next shock came to us as we walked into Patzcuaro.  As I mentioned in yesterdays entry, we’re now camping at 7200 feet above sea-level and walking into the city showed just what that altitude can do to you if you’re not used to it.  Louise and I have walked and hiked quite a bit but when you move up from sea-level and the next day you’re walking up hill at this altitude you feel it.  As we walked into Patzcuaro we knew that this stay was going to be wonderful.

_So much of the city is either uphill or down so you really don’t get much rest unless you find a great place to have a cappuccino.  2 cappuccinos and a plate of cookies at a neat little sidewalk location cost us $60 pesos or about $4.50 US.

_Sitting across the street of “Plaza Grande” offered us a great place to people watch and enjoy the architecture of this beautiful Colonial City.  It also made us perfect targets for vendors…this merchant was selling fans…

_We arrived in town about 10am and by the time we had walked and hiked a lot of the cobblestone streets of the city

_we found ourselves finally resting with a glass of wine in the coach at 5:30.  For a city of more than 40,000, we found a Basilica

_and more than 5 additional churches with incredible historical and architectural beauty.

_What is being used as the “Library” is the shell of 16th century San Agustin church.

_On the rear wall there is a massive mural that was painted by Juan O’Gorman that depicts the history of Michoacán to the 1910 revolution.

_On our way up to the Basilica we walked by this lady selling straw brooms, brushes, and hats.  You know, we had a huge need for a small whisk broom and they had one for $5 pesos (40 cents) that would do perfectly so I gladly put one into my backpack…  As we walked toward this one very narrow road, we encountered a huge traffic jam.  Ninety percent of the traffic jam were cabs or small buses called “combies” and they were all heading deep into the market area.

_This market was small enough to find things and large enough to get lost in.  The isles were tight with people being crammed together because the merchandize was being displayed so deep into the isle that you had to push it aside to get by.  A little later we finally found our way out into the daylight again but right into another market…a used and new clothing market that gave those that have little monies to spend on clothes have a place to find things in their budget.  Next on our list was a hike up to an overlook above the city.

_We missed it the first time we were in the neighborhood but now we had more complete directions.  This also gave us an opportunity to visit the “Casa de los’ Once Patios”.  This was a Dominican convent in the 1740’s and one of Mexico’s first hospitals.  (the round window on the wall looks out or into the bath tub for the convent).

_Today the building is being used by the many different village craftsmen/women who come into Patzcuaro to produce and market their beautiful handmade goods. 

_28 January 2010 We left the tropics and headed for the high mountains.  In just 4 ½ hours we went from sea-level to 7200 feet, or to look at it another way, from 72-85 degree days to 45-72 degrees here at Patzcuaro.  We have found ourselves covered with our BIG blankets at night and still hovering together for warmth in the mornings.  We’ve even fired up the furnace…  I know, why the hell did we head up into the hills???  Wellll, it’s a long story but I’ll try to make it short, we thought it might be nice to get away from the sun and heat for awhile.  Crazy?  Yep, it is…  You can find us on Google by using these coordinates :   19.53397N,  101.61030W 

We found ourselves camping at this great rv park, The Hotel Villa Patzcuaro and RV Park.  It’s small, has all the hook ups, no bugs (it’s too damn cold), and sits within a 20 minute walk of one of Mexico’s most amazing cities….Patzcuaro.  Well if you haven’t heard of it don’t knock yourself out because I hadn’t either, but again, I don’t get around very much.  I’ll fill you in on what we find but it looks like we’ve got ourselves in for a heck of a week or more of exploring. 

_
26 January 2010

You can find us camping in Zihua  (Zihuatanejo) by using Google at  17.63208N,  101.54655

We really had no idea of what we’d find here in “Zihua” (Zee-Wa) and we’re pleasantly surprised.  The drive here was un-eventful with the exception that Louise wasn’t feeling good.  She woke this morning with a bad stomachache but wanted to continue on for the larger city, sick or not.  This stuck with her for a couple of days and fortunately she’s now back to normal.  We’ve been using the Camp Mexico book by the Church’s, so when we decided which campground we wanted to check-in to we headed directly to it.  Of course with Louise not feeling well, I was receiving my directions from the back of the coach.  Well that can and did create some problems and sure as heck I got us off track and found myself negotiating my way directly through the city.  Again we found ourselves really lucky we didn’t have the other coach on this trip.  It doesn’t make much difference whether you’re negotiating the larger cities or a small village, the infrastructure wasn’t set up for the larger motor homes.  Anyway, I did find our way to the campground but upon entering it we were told “We’re completely full…”.  After talking with the management, it was determined that ALL the campgrounds were filled with possibly one exception… Mary’s Restaurant/Campground.  It is really small but the location is primo.  We drove from the full campground to find Mary’s but immediately found ourselves just one block off…  the problem with making this mistake is we now have to back out.  We drove so far down into this very narrow road with cars parked on both sides, the only way out was to back out…  We even drew a crowd along the sidewalk, most likely taking bets on whether I make it or not without taking a door or mirror off of someone’s car.  Luck was with me as I backed out of the trouble spot and made the turn so that I could now make it over to Mary’s.  There is only one other motor home here and this coach stays here year around.  Mary’s would only hold 3 RV’s with hook-ups, but there is enough space for about 6 total.

_When we go to the beach we walk through Mary’s restaurant or the mini-market and walk down the corridor about 50 feet to the beach.

_It’s quiet (except when the “guard dogs” start barking”) and it’s secure.  We can catch a cab for $30 pesos or a bus for $5 to Zihua and they are both at the end of the block.  Zihua is a wonderful city to find just about anything you might want and is easy to find your way around as a pedestrian.  There is an Artisans Market

_and a Farmers Market in the city and we’ve enjoyed both of them.

_This morning we heard that a turtle had come up onto the beach just in front of us and was laying her eggs.  We couldn’t get ourselves around the corner fast enough to see her in the nest, but we were there to watch as she made her way back into the sea.  What an amazing sight…

_We were also amazed to find a cruise ship in the harbor this morning.  Hell, it just about filled the complete opening.  Since we’ve been here we’ve walked down to the beach each night to watch the sun setting.

_Tonight wasn’t an exception except that once we hit the beach we saw the darn cruise ship blocked that too.  All wasn’t lost as the view of the ship with the sun setting behind it turned out to be worthwhile after all.

_We were also here when Mary’s hired a young man to climb the Coconut trees and remove all the coconuts…glad it was him and not me.

_He was paid $5 pesos for each coconut that he removed.  He’s sure not going to get rich doing that.  $5 pesos is about $.40 US.  I would guess he took down 20-25 and then the restaurant takes them and sell’s them for $25 pesos as a coconut.  A quick blow with a machete, a carefully placed straw, and your enjoying that drink of coconut milk. 

_20 January 2010

Google us at Playa Azul :  17.98138 N,  102.35337W 

Tough drive today with winding roads and beautiful lookouts to the sea.  Now don’t let the “tough drive” conger up something terrible, because it wasn’t.  It was just a drive like a lot of the others we’ve driven down this western coastline of Mexico...as a driver you can’t take your eyes off the road for a minute.  If it isn’t the narrowness, trucks and cars coming around the corners on your side, cars and smaller delivery trucks passing you on hills and corners or both, topes…hell, they just put them everywhere.  Even worse, they seem to look for an area for the topes where a tree casts a shadow all day long and when you are driving out of the sun and into the shade, you just don’t see those damn things if you’re not watching closely.  So far, I’ve only hit 3 or 4 and every one of those was spotted but a second too late to come to a complete stop…no damage done YET.  We left “Hippy Dome” and are now at Playa Azul (Blue Beach).  This is more like a little town than a village like last night, but it is little anyway.  The campground that we were looking for happened to be in the parking lot of one of the hotels, but the “Inn was full”.  So we went looking for a place to park that would be “safe” and free.  About a block further down we saw a road that ended right on the beach and it had a large palapa restaurant on each side.  I pulled in to the dead-end street with the hood of the van sitting right on the beach.  I found one young guy that I thought I could talk with and ask if there might be a problem for us to over-night.  “Nada problema Amigo”…  Well we’re in for another night of camping and this one was free.  After getting set-up and moving the beach chairs out in front of the coach, I went over and purchased a couple of cerveza for the hospitality.  This beach kind of reminded us of the beach at Longbeach, Washington.  The major difference was the temperature of the water and the surrounding air.  Now the idea that there was something alike was the way the waves washed over the sand.  It wasn’t one of those crashing high surf board waves, and it wasn’t one of those beaches that you could walk out a short distance and be swimming.  This beach wave started way out there and it would take a day to reach depth enough to get wet.  Now the sand, it was sooooo fine that it was almost impossible to get completely off of your skin or anything else that it came in contact with.  Not one of our favorite beaches. 

_19 January 2010 After leaving San Patricio-Malaque this morning, we found our way south to a little village alongside Hwy 200 called Maruata, Michoacán.  Our coordinances for using Google Earth to find us are:  18.26950N,  103.34748W.  Before getting there we were treated to some of the most winding and twisting narrow 2 lane roads yet.

_If it wasn’t for the tall trees and brush that push you so far into the center of the road, it might not be so bad.  When the roads did open up, we were treated to some wonderful views of the Pacific beaches far below,

_and the mountainsides filled with orchards of bananas, papaya groves, coconut plantations, and other “tropical” crops.

_The books tell us that this is a sleepy little beach front community of Maruata, survives mostly on fishing and they have some beautiful rock outcroppings that sit picture perfect just off shore.  It seems that the vultures have found the wonders of Maruata as well…it must be the right place. 

_We had to wind our way along the beach and through a mass of pangas that spent their day out fishing the close-in waters.  It was evident that fishing is still good here in Maruata with all the fish being carried away by those that dropped a line in the clear waters around us.

_When we dropped off Hwy 200, we found our way to the beach by following a cobblestoned roadway through the village and then onto the tire tracks dug deep in the hard sand.  Once at the beach we were amazed at the amount of palapa roofed structures that lined the shore.  Some were obviously beach side restaurants, but others seemed to have been converted into small homes with a covered palapa patio in-between.

_It’s just one of the small homes with the covered patio that we found ourselves parked for the night. We weren’t the only “campers” here.  I would guess that over the area along the water’s edge, there were 2 dozen tent campers.  These campers found their way here by bus or hitchhiking, but they’re here.  A few years ago these people would have been called “hippies”.  Once we found the right spot, I approached the young man who was swinging in his hammock, and asked if we could park for the night…Si, $20 pesos each ($3.20 total).  Well we don’t have any hook-ups but we’ll do just fine.  We took the patio chairs out to the beach and enjoyed the last moments of the sun while having a cerveza and a coke and enjoyed people watching as they prepared the boats for tomorrow morning and/or bragging about the days catch with each other.  When we first pulled onto the beach we noticed quite a number of young people sitting in a circle in front of their tents.  Being Mr. and Mrs. Social we made our way over to see if we could converse with them.  As it turned out, in this group of 12, there were 5 different countries represented.  And in this group of 12, all were in their late teens to early 20’s and all were enjoying a weed.  Now they weren’t bashful about it, in fact they invited us to join in with them… (Did we or didn’t we???).  After the sun had set and we hadn’t made a move to see were or if we would be able to find a place to eat, we wondered down the beach looking for a place where the lights were on and the tables were set.  Unfortunately we were out of luck.  The only one that came close was one that was already pulling up the table clothes and heading home (the lived there too). Well we didn’t go hungry after all.  During our search we found ourselves following another couple that wasn’t going to give up on finding that certain little restaurant.  Fortunately for us, this young lady was from Mexico City and not only felt she could find all of us a restaurant, she was diligent…  We found the only place that was “almost open”

_and they agreed to feed all four of us even if they were closed for the night. 

_
18 January 2010

On Saturday, after spending most of the day floating in the surf, we joined Keith and Louise for an adventure into the back part of town.  Waaaayyyy back in San Patricio you can find a large “Lounge” that has some of the loudest music I’ve ever had penetrate my ears and enjoy my first  “Drag Show”…  We thought we would arrive a little early and get our choice of table, but 2 hours early was a bit much.  But once there and settled in, we made ourselves comfortable and waited for the rest of the crowd to arrive.  This did give us a chance to do some people watching, especially the kind of “people” that take in this sort of show at this time of day…5pm.  Now remember, we arrived at 3:30 and we’re wondering about THOSE people ???  Well, when the first BUCKET (12 cerveza) arrived (a bucket of 4 cerveza each was the way you had to order) we were first taken back, but then you had to order your food to go along with it.  What were available were small dishes of peanuts, tostados (2), or a quesadilla, one order per person.  Now we didn’t understand this at first, but the food was a part of the purchase with the cerveza.  As you might imagine (for those that know Keith and Louise and us) finishing the bucket wasn’t much of a big deal, but ordering a second….well the show hasn’t started yet…  No sooner had we started into our second bucket and the music (still blaring) changed, and the “Show” has started.  We’ve seen Drag Queens at Capital Hill in Seattle, but these girls? were

_quite attractive and had outstanding singing voices (they were lip-synching).  Anyway, we were totally entertained for an additional 2 hours by 4 Queens who sang, danced,

_and told some incredible jokes.  Unfortunately we didn’t understand a word as they were all in Spanish, but we still laughed our heads off knowing, or thinking we knew, what they were saying.  We didn’t feel we could walk away from the club if we were to stay for the next show, so we gathered our legs under us and made our way back to the coach, knowing we had had a full day.  Now we’ve got nothing to do but wait for the next morning to arrive so that we can start something new and exciting.  Sunday started off by taking the laundry in to the Laundromat and heading to the beach for another half day of a little swimming, floating, and eating some wonderful food from the local establishments.  Speaking of food, Keith and Louise are staying at a campground about a 20 minute walk down the beach from our campground, and they have invited us to join them for a pot-luck of hors d’orves (sp) and drinks.

_Louise put together a cheese spread and crackers dish and we headed out.  The campground that they’re at has been very “sociable” and have put together outings like this the whole time they’ve been there.  Our campground on the other hand has been sociable if you’re Canadian…  On the up-side of our campground is the location.  We’re located  within 30 yards of town center which gives us access to all the restaurants and other stores of need or not, and they are situated between the sea with a HUGE surf and a large lagoon which is totally covered with green plants, crocodiles, and mosquitoes.  As always, choices, choices, choices.

_14 January 2010 San Patricio had their “Street Market” today and we were up early to see if we could find some BARGAINS…  This wasn’t a small market.  It spread up one road for about 4 blocks and then branched off two others for a couple of blocks each.  This was a market for selling everything except fruits and veggies and it was packed with a good turnout.  There were some great buys and there was the normal “junk”,

_but Louise was able to sort through and find just what she needed. Well almost…she bought 4 swimming suits for $40 pesos each (about 3.50 US) and 3 pairs of shorts for the same price.  The only thing is the shorts were mismarked for size so she’ll have to find someone that they will fit and make a gift of them.  As for me, I went, I saw, and I left…early.  On the way back to the coach I came upon a lunch bar that is located in a pedestrian alleyway.  This alleyway is somewhat of a market as well.  It’s permanent and filled mostly with little restaurants serving at walk-up eating bars.  Other stalls in the market sell all kinds of fresh meats.  I sat down on my little barstool and had a great “Torta” (a sandwich of BBQ’D pork on a heated bolio).  Louise and Keith dropped by and let us know that they had made a reservation at AVA’S for dinner is we wanted to join them.  There was going to be a Elvis impersonator and they had heard that he was pretty good but just in case, the table they chose was right next to the door.  With Keith being under the weather the last couple of days, he really wanted to get out good show or not.  We were to meet them at 7 so that gave us a few hours of beach time.  The surf has been pretty quiet for the last 2 or 3 days but about every 7th to 8th set there comes a couple that really fly high into the air and then slap down hard with a crash.  I was already in the water and floating about 40 yards off the beach when Louise walked to the water’s edge.  I saw her step forward and then back a couple of times trying to judge the surf and then she made her move….”NOT NOW !!!!”  She didn’t hear me and she never knew what hit her…  I lost sight of her when the wave flew high into the air and then there she was, standing but struggling with the wave trying to take her in, sun glasses askew, still clutching her “noodle”, and now totally drenched.  I have to say, seeing as how she wasn’t hurt (except her pride…), it was pretty funny.   We did have a good float and we did enjoy just sitting on our beach chairs people watching, and we did get back into the surf.  All is good.  We met Keith and Louise later at Ava’s, ordered our drinks and dinner, and waited for the show to begin.

_About the time our dinner arrived so did Elvis.  The last time we were before an Elvis impersonator we were really disappointed but this time it was pretty good entertainment.  Elvis was a Mexican and had a good voice, but had a lot of trouble with the words.

_His song selection included a few of Elvis’s and a lot of other artists.  We stayed long enough to enjoy the company of our host’s, a few drinks, and “some” of our dinners.  We also spent a little time on the dance floor

_before making our walk back home.  It was great to enjoy the evening with Keith and Louise again and to see him feeling better. 

_12 January 2010 They tell us “this is not the norm”…  It rained again last night and is sprinkling now (2pm).  The skies are high clouds and the forecast for tomorrow and Thursday is clear and 85.  I guess we can put up with it.  I’ve got to introduce you to our next door neighbor:  His name is Jefe (the Boss) and he is 2 1/2 months old.  He is a “rescue dog” and has found a new home….Say Hola, Jefe… 

_This morning Louise and I took a long walk around town by using the back roads.  Mexico is amazing and predictable as well.  Predictable in that you will always find the little “market” or grocery store and you will always find the little “restaurant” on every other block.  Sometimes the grocery store is no more than a little casa (home) with the front window taken out and the living room walls are covered with goods for sale through that window.  Other times it is a  stand-alone 20x20 building with one or two aisles to choose your items from.  The restaurants are somewhat the same… a couple of tables set up in front of their home and the family is all set to serve the daily special (most often a beef taco).  This afternoon we came upon a small bakery (Panaderia).  We have used Panaderia’s in the past but this one was very different.  First off, you had to pass through a little doorway that looked more like you’re going into a private house.

_After you pass through the door and into a dark little room you are asked to pass into a second room. 

_Inside that room we found an old gas fired brick oven.

_This was stuffed with dough baking to perfection.  Wire racks lined the walls that were being filled with lots of wondrous pastries and breads.  You know I’ve found heaven…  Speaking of heaven, I quickly disrobed after getting back to the coach, put on my swimming suit and ran down the bank for a very long float in the amazing water of San Patricio.  Yep, it’s a little “sticky” but a minute two or three in the bay and your feeling on top of the world. 

_11 January 2010 Today has turned out to be a little cloudy after starting out with clear blue skies this morning.  That’s ok, every once in awhile it’s nice to just sit back under the canopy and read a good book with the waves of the ocean slapping the shore 25 yards away.  We are living a dream…  We had to move locations here in the campground yesterday and somehow we ended up a lot closer to the beach (about 30’ closer) and the main street of San Patricio.

_While we had the coach all bundled up to move, we headed out to re-fuel both the gas and propane tanks and stop by a major grocery store.  For all of that, we had to drive about 10 miles to the next town.  In pulling into the town we thought we were on a one-way street (although we did see a couple of cars coming out at us) but that didn’t make any difference to us at the time.  It was later after we got our groceries that we “thought” we had a problem.  Turning back onto the road we arrived on, we continued the same direction thinking we would find a large enough area for us to make a left turn.  At the end of the town we did find that street that was wide enough and offered us a return to the direction that would take us back.  Now this street soon became a very very narrow passage, and we don’t figure we have a large rig…  A couple of times we had to pass by a large pick-up that was parked (all parking was on one side of the street and it was angle parking only) and sticking out much further than the normal cars.  This made it a little touchy…  Then we came upon the little sign that told us that “no trucks” were allowed anywhere beyond and the real fun began.  Let’s just say that the streets all around us were extremely narrow cobblestone and all were one-way.  We wondered from one road to the other and getting absolutely nowhere until after the THIRD time we found ourselves at the corner of the original.  Now this time we saw a motorcycle cop and a very large bus heading out of town on THAT road the same way that we WANTED to go.  Not wasting any more time we pulled right in behind and hoped that we weren’t going to the police station with a police escort.  Well all is well.  We made it back to our campground, our new site, AND we had a chance to catch up again with Keith and Louise for “Happy Hour” at their campground. 

_I didn’t have any pictures of our experience for the day but I did want to include a couple of pictures from this area that I thought you might enjoy…