21 October ’04, Thursday. Well after a couple of days of “just do nothing”, and a couple of visits to the doctor, we said good-bye to our friends at “Angels Home Hotel”, and headed off to see the Black Sea coast. We had heard so much about the town of ªile, that we made that our destination. You don’t see the sea until you have just about driven all the way into town. This whole village is set on hills. You go up one and then down a little, just before you go up again. The skinny little main street through town is up and down as well as twisting back-n-forth. If you park, you’ve got to be almost right on top of the curb, as the streets are so narrow. The “tourists” are gone and the towns people are all about the street. It seems that when I’m the pedestrian, the cars have all the right-a-way, but when I’m the driver of a big car, the pedestrians could care less….it just isn’t fair. Well, we didn’t come here to play games with the towns people, so we had better find a campsite. We had no idea of were to look, or even if there really was one to be found. Lucky for us, we did stumble onto one. It is a small hotel/restaurant/campsite all in one. Fortunately for us, we are the only people here. I say fortunately, because I really don’t know how they could fit more than 2 campers in here anyway. The rooms look very nice and the large pool is absolutely beautiful. All the apron around the pool is a beautiful travertine. Again, it is a beauty. Across the street is the Black Sea and a nice beach. The first thing we did after arriving was to go over and walk the beach for awhile. Very Nice…. Tomorrow…a walk through ªile
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18 October ’04, Monday. I’ve got to tell you something about our drive into Istanbul last night…on the other hand, maybe I shouldn’t. Anyway, I was navigator and Doug was driving…it was about 6:30pm and getting dark just about 40 km outside of the “Big City”. Our maps, well, they need help for us tourists to fully read and understand them. I knew that the turn we wanted off the toll way, was the last one before the big bridge that would take us over to the Asia Minor side. As it got darker and darker, I became more anxious and sure as heck, I ordered the van off too soon…. Oh well (I said), I think we are not too far off the track (we should have gotten right back on the toll way again)…
What a night, and I’m sure that Bonnie and Doug won’t want to visit us again EVER…I’m sorry…honestly…please come back… As it was, Doug got out of the van to ask directions 2 or 3 times, and then we finally, for sure, saw where we were and we were able to make it to “Angel’s Home Hotel” once more. At breakfast we all sat discussing what we wanted to see “this last full day” before the Rohrers were to fly home. The majority wanted to visit the “Grand Bazaar”, so off we went….money in hand. That’s what last days in town are all about…spend, spend, spend. Bonnie, you did a good job, and we can’t wait to see the photos of the kids in their new outfits. This medieval 15th century shopping mall has some 4500 shoppes together with mosques, banks, police stations, restaurants and workshops. It is a great place to wonder around in and most likely, you will get lost. We found that shopping there was fun, picturesque, and fulfilling all at once. Yes, there were those that would try to get you into their shops, but it definitely wasn’t hassling. The bazaar is divided into several different areas specializing in carpets, jewelry, clothing, silverware and so on. We even stopped for tea. It was served on a table that was no more than 10 inches off the floor and our stools were about the same…I thought they were made for little people, but no, they were made for us to suffer on. Now I must admit, one thing that we haven’t neglected, is a good meal. We have had wonderful meals at each and every corner we have gone. The Turkish people, they have great food. You might have to watch the water once in awhile, but the food is wonderful. I know that one thing that we all have agreed, the people of Turkey have been the warmest, friendliest, and most delightful. Fortunately, Louise and I will be here for much more. Well, that time has come. We all climbed into “Bumble Bee” and headed off to the airport. It was time for Bon and Doug to head back home…Thanks for coming, we really enjoyed your visit a lot. Tomorrow…See the Doctor 17 October ’04, Sunday. First I must tell you about our beds since we have been sleeping outside of “Bumble Bee”. All of our beds have been single beds that have been slid together…so far not a big deal… Now this is were I start having a small problem…the sheets are singles that are laid across the beds. Now we each have 2 sheets, one covering the top half and the other the bottom half. The big problem comes now…THEY DON’T STAY ON !!!! They end up all bunched up under you, and uncomfortable as heck. There also is no top sheet…you only have a “single” heavy comforter that will not stay in place…my toes are always out, or I’m out…no in between. Ok, that’s all out, now back to our leaving the hotel across from the beach and the village I didn’t know the name of… Our drive today was taking us along the Aegean Sea coast-line. We would pretty much follow it all the way up to Canakkale, were we would catch a ferry across the Dardanelles. Crossing the Dardanelles was interesting to say the least. First, the passage through the Dardanelles, to the Marmara Sea, the Straits of the Bosperus, and then into the Black Sea is one of the heaviest traveled by tanker ships anywhere in the world. Now this ferry must be able to slip it’s way across all the shipping channels of incoming and outgoing ships, in water that seems to be boiling….white caps were everywhere and the ferry seemed to find each and everyone of them to slip an slide on. It was a rough ride. Besides that, when they load the boat, they are loading it with small cars to HUGE TRUCKS, and they don’t have any rhyme or reason as to the loading pattern….we were hoping that it was balanced good enough for a safe passage….thank God it was. After our safe landing, we headed over to see Gallipoli Peninsula. Just 1.4 km wide at its narrowest point, the Strait of “Canakkale” Dardanelles, has always offered the best opportunity for armies to cross between Europe and Asia Minor. From King Xerxes of Prsia in 481 BC, Alexander the Great 150 years later, and on and on. During the 19th Century, England and France competed with Russia for influence over the declining Ottoman Empire. At the start of WWI, an all-out war was fought on this peninsula with heavy losses all around….The British..200,000 casualties, with 36,000 dead, French...47,000 casualties, 500,000 Ottoman troops became casualties with more than 55,000 dead. Take a look at the size of the Gallipoli Peninsula…it took us about 45 minutes to drive completely around the battle field…it just doesn’t seem possible that so many could have lost their lives or been one of the casualties here….why? To secure a passage way for who? Why don’t we make ALL the heads of government make a trip here before they can be sworn into office, and go through the memorial and museum. Tomorrow….Back in Istanbul 16 October ’04, Saturday. First let me tell you about yesterday….No plans, no schedule, and we filled the day. Doug wanted another “Turkish Shave”, which he got, and while he was doing that I went over to the internet café to try up-loading pictures. Doug got his shave, and I went bust…not one up-load…the system was just too slow. Lunch was next and then we went to look at a “rental”. We thought that the Bodrum area might workout for our “winter quarters”, so what is available, we’ll soon see. We saw a nice little one bedroom unit right across from the beach. We both thought it would work fine if, this is the place we decide on…but we still have more thinking to do. Now, today... We checked out about 9:30am and headed off to see Ephesus (Efes). Colonists from Greece arrived around 1000BC, fleeing an invasion by the Dorians…the attraction…Ephesus. What we saw, is the best preserved classical city in the Mediterranean. St John is said to have come to Ephesus at the end of his life and to have written his Gospel on Ayasuluh Hill. Along with that, Ephesus made large sums of money from the pilgrims paying homage to the ancient Anatolian fertility goddess Cybele / Artemis The Fabulous (come to find out, he had a disease of some type to have such a large appendage). As we were driving to the Ephesus site, we came across at least 2 other sites of pre-Roman to Roman ruins. The whole countryside around here is scattered with them. Some are quite small, and others are so large that it takes at least 2 hours, with a guide, to see it all. We walked into the “Great Theatre” of Ephesus and could hardly believe the size. It would hold easily 25,000 people and entertainers. It is over 2000 years old and is still used for performances today. One of the performers recently, was “Sting”. It is said that during his concert, his music damaged the original stonework. This created a big controversy. On our tour, we walked the Sacred Way. We saw the Library of Celsus, Curetes Way, the Brothal, the terraced houses, the Gates of Hercules, and on and on… it was a wonderful afternoon, and the ruins, magnificent…Ephesus. Time was getting out of hand, so we bid farewell to Ephesus and continued our trip up the coast. We didn’t have any place in mind, but knew that evening was still going to come and we would have to find a place to bed down. Just outside of Bergama, Doug came up with our next “pension” for the night…I can’t remember what the name of the town or the pension was, but we didn’t find it. As it was, we did find a hotel across from the beach in a neighboring village for $20 each room. What a bargain…the only glitch, it was on the top floor (5th), and we were the only one’s staying there out of approx. 70 villas…why the “top” floor???? Oh well, a little more exercise just wont kill us (or will it???). Tomorrow…Canakkale for the ferry, and then on to The Gallipoli National Historic Park. 14 October ’04, Thursday. Cereal with bananas, coffee, toast, and the presidential debates….what more could you want???? I decided, after just so much of the debates, that it was “pool time” for me. About an hours exposure, and a “hey, we want to go into the market…”, I got my towel and headed up. The village market is a “big deal” here in Yalikavak. One of the first things we did was to have one of those flat bread sandwiches. Mine was filled with a meat mixture, Louise had her potato with cheese, and Bon had hers with cheese…Doug ?, he had half of everyone’s. As it was, the market was a success, as we came back to the condo with a ton of fruit and veggies….all the good stuff. Then, over to the “cloth market”, about 2 blocks away, just to see if we could find some real values that we just couldn’t do without. I bought a large flashlight, but that was all we really bargained for. Now back home and “the men” will prepare tonight’s meal. Doug wýll do the cookýng and I wýll do the pretty stuff....flowers, candles, and you know.... It will be great. Tomorrow....another day in paradise 13 October ’04, Wednesday. For me it was “Hair Day”…I got a haircut this morning, actually a complete “Turkish” facial shave…. You might even say that after the artist finished, the top of my head and my face felt like a “new babies butt”. I’ve been lathered (and I mean “LATHERED” with thick, creamy lather), shaved with “The” razor twice, massaged deeply, from head to lower back, and splashed with “dang, that stings”, but smells good stuff. With Doug flashing away with the camera, and all the accolades from Lou and Bon, you would think I was a celib or something. We followed that up with a quick lunch and then a ride over to Bodrum. Now Yalikavak is a very small, quiet village, and Bodrum….well, from what we hear, it is a “hyper-resort”. We found it very well received by a ton of tourists, all wondering around the boardwalk, the bazaar, and the Castle of St Peters. The Castle of St Peters was built by the Knights Hospitaller in 1402. Then there was the boat harbour…all of us agreed, we have never seen so many large sailing vessels in one area, at one time, anywhere we’ve traveled. It was amazing. I couldn’t even guess as to how many there were, but their wasn’t one that wasn’t a beauty and under 50’ in length. Our walk through the bazaar wasn’t with out spending some money. Louise found a nice “knock-off” type of purse/backpack, and Doug, a leather jacket and 3 sweaters. I was looking for material for upholstering the van. I found the perfect “swatch”, so now I’ve got to find the 4 meters to do the job. A stop by the grocery store, off to dinner at our local Italian pizza palor, and then back here for a stage show at the resort. It turned out to be a “Ho-Hum” show…too bad. Tomorrow….unknown 12 October ’04, Tuesday. Prior to seeing Club Flipper, we all wondered just what kind of “palace” we would be checking into. As we pulled up to the gate, we started to find out. Then at the reception desk, we found we were in for a wonderful experience….it was looking way above expectations, in fact, outright beautiful. Our room is on the second floor and overlooks the main pool and the Bay of Yakasi. This bay comes off the South Aegean Sea. Sea temp is somewhere near “warm”, pool temp, somewhere near “cool”, sun temp, somewhere near “really nice !!!”. This morning we had breakfast on the veranda, and then, after setting up an appointment for a massage, we headed into the village of Yaklikavak. Yaklikavak is really a wonderful seaside village. We walked the main part of town in just a few minutes, but we will be spending more time to really explore all the little businesses that abound up and down the boardwalk. The beauty is everywhere, good little restaurants to eat your heart out, and wonderful pieces of art tied to the dock. The boardwalk has at least 8 different boats that want to take you out for the day….all the luxury and excitement you can stand. Today was barber day for Bon and Doug, and tomorrow will be my day. Doug’s experience was the “Turkish Shave”…we now call him “Baby Face Douglas”…he says it was “the best” shave he has ever had. Now, it’s lunch on the boardwalk (the sea food casserole was incredible), a little internet time, and then back to Flipper’s and our massage. Bonnie, Doug, and I are going for the full meal deal and Louise has opted for the facial only. Well, the outcome is this…what a disappointment for all of us…it was a bust ! You live and learn, and we learned to ask them to explain what it is we will be experiencing exactly…step by step. Tonight we are settled into the leather easy chairs and couch, and relaxing with a good book ( in my case here on the computer for a little while longer). Maybe a little popcorn will make everyone look up. Tomorrow…for me, ”The Shave” 10/11 October ’04, Sunday / Monday. Up at 5am and on our way to the Kapadokya Balloons office. “Up, Up, Up and Away, In Your Hot Air Balloon…” by 7am. It was a perfect morning, for a perfect trip through Cappadocia and view all the “Fairy Chimneys and Cave Homes”. Our flight went high, and it went low. We were so low that our basket would brush the bushes and fly through the tree branches. We flew on up to 1,000 meters, and could look out over the entire area, the castles, caves, the volcano, and on, and on, and on. The ride was so smooth you could not feel any movement at all unless you looked directly down and you could see that you were in a slow glide across the sky. As far as moving up and down, you again couldn’t feel it, but you could see it if you watched the ground. Of course you would see people watching you, and all would wave, and in some cases, you could even have a conversation with them. We were up for just over 2 hours and then it was time to land. We were all given instructions to landing for the “just in case” scenario, but our landing was so good, that we landed on the trailer that was to take the basket back to the office…pretty good landing, I would say. Nooowww, the table is set, and the glasses are filled, and we have a “Hot Air Balloon Landing Party” complete with the “Bubbly”. Unfortunately, all this had to come to an end and we had to get on our way across country to Bodrum. It will take 2 days to get there, with one planned stop on the way. Our overnight is in the lakeside town of Egirdir. We found a nice little restaurant on an island just at the end of town. We dined at waters edge, and found that we could also stay the night in their pension…all was good. Just before 8am we were on our way to our next stop, Pamukkale. Our drive yesterday and today will range from all-out flat for as far as you can see to mountain driving, were you have to get down into 2nd gear (and just make it). Also along the way to Bodrum, I had a couple of other surprises…80km is the speed limit…yep, I got it…$83 million worth, and one pass. Quite an experience to be stopped by the Turkish Police. The 1st one ($83 Mil), was quite cool, the 2nd (pass, my 2nd pass since being on our journey), was “We Love Americans !!!” (thinking, OK, here it comes, $$$$), were do you go??? Bodrum, Have a wonderful time….go, go, go….we did…quickly… Pamukkale, is the host to the ruins of Hierapolis. The once grand city of pagan, Roman, Jewish and early Christian. The imposing “Theatre” (seating over 12,000 spectators), tombs and the crystal-clear Travertine pools that terraces down the hill. The water flowing through it all, is nice and warm…a good stop, a great lunch and conversation with Mustafa, at his restaurant / pension. Now, another 2 hours plus and we will be in Bodrum. Our stay is at “ Club Flipper” in Yakasi (12 km outside of Bodrum). We arrived at sundown…just in time…Tomorrow….Catch up time and relax 9 October ’04, Saturday. After breakfast, we all jumped into “Bumble Bee” and went off to our 1st attraction….The Goreme Open Air Museum. This is a cluster of rock formations cutout for, Byzantine churches, chapels and monasteries. As we were just about to pay and enter, I was approached by a young Turkish man who identified himself as a “licensed guide’. I asked to see this “license” and how much did he want to guide all 4 of us through the museum. All of agreed this would be well worth the 15 million lira, so, Sinan was hired. His information and knowledge of this area was much more than any tour book would have provided. There were over 365 churches and a couple monasteries all dug-out here in these rock formation. They dated back to the 11th century. Unfortunately most of the caves have been “opened” because of the rock breaking away and exposing the interior. Putting that aside, the cave paintings, the lay-out, and the grave sites were all wonders themselves. A few of the paintings have been restored, and others vandalized. One thing of interest, was in the vandalizing of the paintings, the eyes, faces, and hands of all the subjects were scratched out. Our understanding of this, is the Muslim religion does not allow for any images, so scratching out the eyes erases the image. Those that were too high to reach, were left alone. We then “hired” Sinan to take us to see some of the “fairy chimneys” that we hadn’t seen yet. We soon found ourselves driving though a sandy, rutted lane, heading way off into the valley. Soon, Sinan stopped us in front of some of the most incredible “fairy chimneys” we had seen. What a great photo-op this was. Then, a ride across the plateau to a newly opened underground city. As you arrive, you wouldn’t know that there was any type of cave or caves below you, but upon entering a small tunnel you find yourself right in the middle of the “barn”. The first floor was set aside for the animals. There was feeding troughs, tie rings, and holes dug for cleaning. Then a smaller tunnel leads you down to the living areas. The cooking, wine making, sleeping, and dining areas were all tied together by additional and smaller yet tunnels. Some of these tunnels actually ended with a large round (wheel type) stone, that could be rolled into the tunnel passage to block any intruders that might find their way there. A couple of the tunnels would wind and twist while going down to the next floor and room. They were so small, while bent over, your back would be scrapping the top of the tunnel. While we didn’t feel real secure in being underground there, we all stepped forward. Another surprise came when we came back up, we found a tour bus unloading about 40 people to tour the same caves we were just leaving. Let me tell you, I wouldn’t want any more than the four of us down there at one time, let alone have 40 or more pressing together in any of the rooms or tunnels. Tomorrow….Flying High !!!! 8 October ’04, Friday. We awoke to a heavy downpour of rain on our last morning in Istanbul. Driving in a town of over 20 million people, that doesn’t get that much heavy rain was a challenge. Traffic was a lot of the time at a complete standstill for minutes at a time. Water was over every curb, and cars and trucks were stalled everywhere. Finally, we reached the bridge that would carry us out of town and we were on our way. We were traveling into the center of the country, Ankara the capital, and then heading south to Cappadocia. This was going to be a day and a half of travel. We finally stopped just outside of Ankara in a town called Gobasi. Bon and Doug were to stay in a hotel and Louise and I in “Bumble Bee” and the hotel lot. After checking in, we jumped into the van and headed in to dinner. After dinner, we headed back to the hotel….well, we tried…, we couldn’t get back across the street to go “back”. So, we headed out in the wrong direction for 23km before we were able to turn around and finally back to the hotel. Almost 50km round trip…(am I doing something wrong ???). Anyway, morning comes, we have a bite to eat at the hotel, and we are on our way. Around 10:45am I have to stop for gas, and while I am working with the young man giving us gas, a car with 4 young men comes in and comes over to the van. One of them (Erhan) is speaking very good English, and everyone is having a good conversation. Finally, Erhan says he is getting married today. After all of us giving him our congratulations, he invites us to his wedding…he says it will have, “lot’s of dancing, singing, eating, and drinking for THREE DAYS….AND WE ARE INVITED !!!! It turns out, that we were the first tourists that he has ever seen in his town, and he wants us to share his day with him. Unfortunately, it just wasn’t possible, so we said our good-bye’s and again congratulations. As we headed further into town, we found Ehran standing in the middle of the road waving us to pull into a parking spot. “At least have a cup of tea with me”… we said we would love to, so we got out thinking we would walk into the restaurant next door…wrong….he walked us down the street about 3 blocks to his families home, sat us down, introduced us to ALL his family, and then proceeded to feed us a wonderful meal….no was not in his vocabulary. There is more to this story, but you will have to ask us about it. It was a wonderful experience for all of us…Thanks to Ehran and his family. Now, back on the road to Cappadocia. Tomorrow…Cappadocia |
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