23 March 2007

Friday

Well we are a few days ahead of what we thought we would be coming up the Baja.  This afternoon we pulled into Guerrero Negro.  A few years ago Louise and I stopped here and went out on a whale watching excursion.  That was the time were we encountered the “friendly whale”…what an experience.  Today we are here only to have a place to camp for the night and have a dinner at their restaurant.  They do serve some of the best seafood dinners you can get.  Prior to dinner we all got into Phil’s car and drove out to see the salt mine and some of the evaporation ponds.  We were hoping that we could get out to see the bay with the whales, but that was closed off to us. After cocktail hour at the coach with Phil and Kathy, the four of went into the dining room for dinner.  After looking the menu over about a dozen times, we all decided to have the scallops…it wasn’t a mistake, they were incredible. 

22 March ‘07

Wednesday

This morning, Phil, Kathy, Louise and I drove into Mulege for the afternoon.  Mulege is a town that “if” you find a parking place, you spend the day walking to see the rest of the town.  Not too much has changed in Mulege over the last 50 years or more, except since the last time we were here 5 years ago they have added a bank and 2 Pemex gas stations.  Now this may not sound like much of a change, but believe me, it is…  After our initial walk around the town (which took us a total of 20 minutes), we went looking for a good place to eat.  One of the “semi-locals” to us about Don’s Place, “this is the best the town has to offer, and it’s quite reasonable”…  Don’s Place was easy to find, so we went up the stairs, looked the place over, and decided to order.  The only thing wrong with Don’s Place, was the serving size.  First there was the soup, then the entrée for lunch.  They were all so big that all of came to the same conclusion…If we ever come back, we will only order one entrée for the two of us…it was really good and it was REALLY BIG !!!! Phil wanted to spend some time at the internet café, so the rest of us walked off a little bit of our lunch.  When Phil finished, we walked up the hill to the museum.  This building that now houses the museum, sits high on the hill over looking the valley and the town below.  It is a large white building that reminded Louise and I of one of the many fortresses that we saw all across Europe.  High thick walls with a tower located at all four corners.  Once in side, it was evident that this was used as a prison in the middle 1800’s to the middle 1900’s.  It has a picture of this young 13 year old boy that was being killed by a firing squad for stealing some fruit…this was a bad place !!!  Next it was back down the hill and off to see this very old mission.  This mission was one of the oldest in the Baja (prox mid 1700’s). Again, it had those massively thick adobe walls, small windows, and huge doors.  Then it was back to the car and off to find this “Bell Rock” that Louise had been reading about.  Fortunately it wasn’t too far from where we were camped.  The biggest problem was to find this stone in the middle of a stone filled mountain. We were also told of some carvings that had been done on some of the stones by the early “Indians”.  Luck was on our side as we no sooner had arrived at what was described as the right spot, and we spotted some art work that had been etched on the rock.  Then just by chance, Louise struck a large rock with a small stone and the damn rock came back with a sound like a large bell…it was amazing to say the least.  Well, it’s been another full day.  The wind blew real hard last night, and again blew sand all over the place.  This morning it was still windy, but not too much to write home about.  Now on the other hand, the wind is hollowing again.  In the morning we will be out of here, a little disappointed that we couldn’t get into the water with the kayak more, but even with one day out there, it was wonderful.  Tomorrow…

21 March ‘07

Tuesday

Yesterdays drive up the Sea of Cortez was short and sweet.  We pulled out of Laredo about 9:30 am and headed up the coast to Bahia Concepción.  The drive took us about 3 hours and when we arrived we had our choice of at least 10 different beaches (Playa) to choose from. A few years ago Louise and I stayed a couple of nights at Playa El Requeson, and then on our way down the Baja in December, we stayed a couple of nights at Playa Buenaventura.  We totally enjoyed both of these beaches.  Phil and Kathy stayed a couple of nights this last January at Playa Santispac and had great things to say about this beach, so, taking their advice we found a couple of great spots to park.  One of the great advantages for Louise and me was the quick and easy access to the water for our kayak.  We hadn’t been parked but an hour and we were unloading the kayak and getting ready to head out.  Bahia Concepcion has been described in the books as the “desert Polynesia”.  This huge bay, open to the north and sheltered on the east by some tall hills, has a string of sandy beaches and small islands.  Now a national marine preserve, this large bay is one of the cleanest marine systems in the world.  The bay is about 26 miles long and at the widest point it is about 10 miles.  We took the kayak out along the coast and followed from one beach area to another and then headed out to visit one of the larger islands in the bay.  This island was only inhabited by birds, but boy was it inhabited.  We saw Blue-footed Boobies, magnificent frigates, 3 different pelicans, and enough sea gulls to fill the shores of Puget Sound all over again.  The day was perfect…

When we got back, we found Phil and Kathy sitting at waters edge and immediately got them fitted with our life vests, a little instruction, and a shove out to enjoy the wonders of kayaking for themselves. 

20 March ‘07

Tuesday

Today we left Ciudad Constitucion and headed across the peninsula to Loreto.  Ciudad Constitucion is a medium sized town that makes its mark in agriculture.  For weeks now I have been eating great strawberries that have come from this area, and when in the grocery stores we pick up most of our veggies that were grown from here as well.  Also important to us, is this is the best place to stop and make sure that your gas tank is full.  It can be a long drive in either direction if you find yourself passing the Pemex Stations here.  When we make the right turn, after going through town, we start our ride on those narrow roads that have given the Baja its reputation.  Prior to this point, the roads were a mix of 2 lanes and 4 lanes all the way to or from Cabo San Lucas.  Yes, they were still a narrow passage way, but believe me when I say “Narrow” from now on.  The road is very straight most of the 83 miles across this part of the peninsula as well as a fare amount of road and bridge construction.  After we leave the farm fields we start to see the plains of scrub and small cacti until we start our climb up the foothills prior to the Sea of Cortez.  At that point we see again a change.  The cacti become very tall, with most being single stems that reach for the sky, and then there are others that put out an additional branch or two to add another character.  The dry scrub has changed from dead to green to complement the cacti and the dark rocks of the hills that are now growing into full sized mountains.  The climb is gradual although there is lots of hairpin turns.  When it’s time to make the decent to the sea, it is very steep.  Most of the time the transmission is in the lower gear range as we descend, and we needed the lower speed as we come into the corners that have no protective guard rails. One of my favorite sites is when we come around that last turn and right in front of us is this beautiful golf course and the town of Loreto.  Loreto was the first European settlement in the “Californias”, and the religious capital for 132 years.  This morning I was out for a walk about 7:30am and they were having a service in the Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto.  This chapel was first built in October 1697 and fortunately has been rebuilt many times keeping the original feeling as much as possible.  So much to see and so little time to do it.  Louise and I were first introduced to the La Picazon Restaurant in Cabo San Jose about 10 years ago.  They then moved to San Lucas a couple of years later.  Three years ago, they decided to move to Loreto.  Bonnie and Doug had given a good try to find them but failed…we, arriving today asked more questions and got some good directions.  Let me tell you, this was a challenge, but we did find them.  They are located north of Loreto about 5 miles, that is 5 miles on a dirt “track”.  Keeping strong to our desire to eat a great lunch, we kept on until we found them.  This little “restaurant” is now a “destination” restaurant.  The food is still great, the service is wonderful, and the family who owns and operates this operation are the best.  Now, the view and the décor…well, you’ve to see for yourself, it is too much and too good to describe. 

19 March ‘07

Monday

Yesterdays drive up to La Paz and Tecolate Beach was uneventful with the exception of the “Hot Rod” sound coming from underneath the coach.  The drive though La Paz was easy and then taking the road out past the ferry terminal and onto Tecolate was all new.  The road was a typical two lane roadway from here in Mexico, narrow, potholed, and a couple “deviations” before getting to Tecolate.  When we arrived we found that it would be to our best interest if we would unhook one of our cars and drive out onto the sand and check out if and were we could park the motor homes.  We found it wasn’t too much of a challenge, so we pulled out.  We wound our way around sand dunes and other motor homes and campers, a few tents and beach goers.  Finally we found a place that would work.  We pulled the two motor homes right onto the rocks that bordered to sand and the sea, we were finally here.  Getting ourselves all set up, jacks down, chairs out, and a sand mat laid out, we were ready to sit and relax with the Sea of Cortez at our door steps.  About an hour later we noticed that the wind would come up and throw sand all over us and then it would die down again.  This happened for about 30 minutes and then it got to the point that the wind and sand drove us inside for the night…Let me tell you, it was a NIGHT to remember…the wind howled and shook the coach so hard, and the sand was  pelting so with a rage that come morning we decided to GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE !!!  It was nasty.  In the morning it did die down, but we had had enough.  We were now on our way to Puerto Lopez Mateous (Magdalena Bay).  After stopping for gas and traveling across the peninsula, we found a campground just outside of Constituion.  This morning we headed out to Puerto Lopez Mateous to see if we could find the gray whales.  We left the motor homes behind and took Phil and Kathy’s Honda.  It was about a 45 minute drive.  Once there we contacted a tour guide that could take us out to see the whales.  The 4 of us and Fernando our skipper jumped into his “Panga” and headed out.  The boat ride took us out past this peninsula of sand that seemed to stretch for miles.  Just after rounding the end the sea got to swell and swell and swell…we were in for a “boat ride” to end boat rides.  The swells came from the bar that separated this peninsula from the Pacific Ocean, similar to the bar at the Columbia River.  Finally as we got closer to the bar it’s self, we were in the middle of the whales.  Big “Momma” whales and little “Baby” whales.  I don’t know how many we saw, but we had a blast over the next hour and a half, “WOW, LOOK !!!,  OVER THERE !!!!, It was amazing.  We also saw a group of porpoise that was following our bow.  On the way back, Fernando saw something on the sandy peninsula that he wanted to show us.  As we came to about 15 feet to shore and a group of small tree branches that were hanging out into the water, there on one of the branches was this little sea lion pup…Fernando made his tip on this trip !!!    

17 March ‘07

Saturday

After leaving Vagabondo’s RV Park in Los Cabos, we headed toward Todos Santos.  We are traveling up the Baja with Phil and Kathy.  They also have a motor home (36 foot Holiday Rambler) and they are pulling their Honda.  Our first stop for the night was a spot that is just 15 kms south of Todos Santos and one that is a favorite with surfers.  This is a “Free” camping spot.  It is located about ¼ mile off of Highway 1 and right on the beach.  The road coming in is packed sand and dirt and the areas that can hold the campers, is also solid ground.  Coming off the highway was quite an experience, as there is no shoulder, so you drop off about 6 or more inches from the black-top.  It is enough to make the coach moan and groan and just about everything sounds like it is going to come out of the cabinets. Soon we are settled, our jacks are dropped, the chairs are out, and a drink is in hand.  The surf is up and pounding…the sun is bright and we are waiting now for a magnificent sunset.  We did unhook Phil’s car and head into see Frank and Lynn.  Their home is in Todos Santos, but when we got there we found out that they were in La Paz until Sunday.  Frank hasn’t been feeling well, so we thought he might have gone up there to see the doctor.  Saturday morning we pulled the two coaches out of their spots and started heading to La Paz ourselves.   We were heading to Tecolate Beach, which is about 15 miles east of La Paz.  Driving out of the campsite here at “Surfers Beach”, was again riding all the sand  / dirt and bumps.  Just as I was pulling over that 6 or more inches onto the highway, I hit the bottom of the coach hard.  All of a sudden I knew that something was really hurt, I had no power to move forward and there was this terrible noise.  I, we were in trouble and I didn’t yet know why.  About 200 yards up the road I found a spot that was long enough for the two rigs to pull off the road.  I went back to tell Phil that something had happened and then I ran forward to crawl under my coach to find out what I could.  The first thing I saw was that the tailpipe and the muffler was completely wrapped around the driveshaft and rear axle…totally crimped in 4 places and not moving even a fraction of an inch.  Shoot !!!!  After climbing out and telling Louise, Phil and Kathy what I found, we ran through our options.  As it turned out, Phil and I jumped into my car and headed off to Todos Santos.  I was hoping to find some one who could come out and cut the tail pipe and muffler off.  This was no easy task.  Luckily Phil found this young man that was having a garage sale and asked him if he spoke any English…”Heck Yes Man, What Can I Do For You?”  He volunteered to help us out and find someone that could do the work for me.  He left his stuff sitting along side the road and got into my car and off we went.  We had been told about this fellow up and around the street, that did some welding and he might have what it takes to cut the pipe.  Thanks to our “volunteer” Miguel agreed to give it a try.  He put his electric saw into a case and got into my car.  Dropping off our “volunteer”, we were off.  About an hour and a half later, we were on our way back to Todos Santos to deliver Miguel back to his shop and pay his bill…$400 pesos = $40. Dollars.  I would have and thought I would have to pay 3 times that much.  Now back to the coach, grab a sandwich and coke, and we are now off to Tecolate Beach and with a new sound coming from under our coach…ROARRRR

15 March ‘07

Thursday

Well this is the last day…let’s get it all cleaned and packed up.  Most of the day was spent just doing that.  We did have a lot of friends dropping by to say good-bye and asking if we were to be back again next year…No, not next year but we will be thinking of all of you about this time then. 

Suzie and Ricardo have invited Phil and Kathy Lublin, Louise and me over to their “casita” tonight for dinner with some others that are also leaving in the morning.  It seems that this is the time of year, here in Cabo, that a lot of those that have been here awhile start moving north.  All of us had a great time and promised to keep in touch with each other.  Suzie and Ricardo, THANK YOU for being there for us and with us!!!

14 March ‘07

Wednesday

Wednesday morning we started in earnest to get ourselves and the coach ready for leaving…I worked on the outside by opening all the basement cavities, taking everything out, wiping the walls and floors down, and then restocking.  Louise was inside doing the same thing, opening all the drawers, cabinets, and closets and getting them looking like brand new.  Then at noon we both headed out to the airport to pick up Bonnie and Doug.  They were coming back from their “journey” up to Scottsdale Arizona.  Bon had to be air-vacked to the Mayo Clinic last Sunday morning and thank God she is OK.  It is good to have her back here in Cabo and being in great health...I think she was just looking for a first class ride in one of those fancy Lear Jets.  Wednesday night Lou and I had a great dinner with Ernie and Sheila Pontius.  We went to a great Italian restaurant that Ricardo and Suzie introduced us too,   Salvadores…the food is sooo good, but sooo much of it.  All of us split 2 salads, 2 main courses, and one Tiramisu.  I must say, we ate like kings.  Joannie Feinstein was there with some of her friends (clients), so we had a chance to visit with her for a couple of minutes as well.  Two unfortunate things about Salvadores was the service really needs help, and this band that comes in for tips only…they should be asking for tips to LEAVE !!!  We were really glad to get together with Ernie and Sheila, they are very special and great friends…

13 March 07

Tuesday

I’m going to go back to Monday night when Ricardo, Suzie, Louise and I went to dinner at Mi Casa after spending the day at the beach snorkeling.  We had planned to go to Miguel Locos but when we got to the front door it was all locked up and closed for the night…now what?  It didn’t take us too long to make up our minds.  Across the street and the town plaza sat Mi Casa.  The last time we had dinner there was about 10 years ago.  The décor is “Old Mexico” and it is wonderful to let your eyes just wonder from one vignette to the next, and the food…Outstanding !!!  This is a place that just makes you feel good, especially when you have great company to enjoy it with.  It has really been great to find Ricardo and Suzie again, and it will be tough to say good-bye come Friday. 

Tuesday morning we ventured down to the Sand Bar for breakfast and a chance to see all the guys that make the Sand Bar what it is once again...Chino, Able, Alfredo, Rodrigo, and Jesus.  Unfortunately things aren’t back to “normal”, but the court date is coming on Friday, let’s hope that settles it once and forever. About 5 this evening Sheila Pontius called and told us that she and Ernie had 4 free tickets to the New York Ice Show.  Ice show?...Here in Cabo San Lucas?...Free???...We’ll be there !!!  When Lou and I arrived we found Ernie and Sheila waiting out front of this large tent.  At that time, there were no more than 10 to 12 others standing around, but this was about 30 minutes before the gates opened and after all, it’s Mexico and Mexican time prevails…In the next 30 minutes the crowds grew to about 200 or so and the gates were opened.  Seeing as our tickets were “Free”, we were lead off by this young man.  To get to the bleacher section we passed through this maze of supports for the high priced seats and finally to the bleacher section…the “Free Seats”.  No sooner had we had the opportunity to see these bleacher you sit in those seats (pointing to the high priced ($15.00)) for $5.00 or you can sit on these (a 2X6 plank) for “Free”.  Well let me see…a 2X6 plank vs. a plastic seat with a back on it…and the show is how long???...HERE’S YOUR $5 !!!   After being seated in our new “Luxury Seats” and directly in front of the performers we were totally and enthusiastically entertained.  The show took on the New York Theatre theme, with dances and music from different Broadway shows.  We were also entertained with comedy and THE best juggler any of us has ever seen…what a show !!! 

8 March ‘07

Thursday

Things have gotten quite interesting here in Cabo San Lucas over the last few days.  I had mentioned the commotion at the Sand Bar Restaurant earlier, and was wondering how it might play out…well, it’s still playing.  Last Wednesday Louise and I were here at home and having a drink and conversation with Ernie and Sheila, when Ricardo came over and asked us to “rendezvous at the San Bar”.  “Juancho had called and asked all of us to come down and “”sit in at the restaurant and make a presence of ourselves…DO NOT confront anybody!!!”.  It was like calling out the troupes…we ALL headed off for our “assignment”.  It was amazing to watch.  Ernie, Sheila, Louise and I were the first to arrive and find the Sand Bar taken over by TWO LARGE TENTS and all the tables and chairs of the restaurant piled off to one small side.  We grabbed a chair and sat down as we were told.  We had no sooner found our chair and people were arriving to join us from all corners of beach.  In just a few minutes we were joined by many dozens of “sitters”.  We were told that there were some fellows that would be coming by soon and removing the tents, and then it would be our responsibility to move the tables and chairs into the original positions and SIT.  Well just as we had heard, out of nowhere comes this group of Mexican fellows (Big Mexican “fellows”).  As soon as they hit the ground, they had the two tents out and were on their way out of the area….BING, BAM, BING….   Well the guys that were manning the tent now were not too happy.  The first thing they did was to call the police.  The next was to look over the crowd and pick the ones that they thought might be the “ring leaders”… Ricardo and me….  Lots of things were said, tons of pictures were taken of the two of us (I’d like to get copies if someone has any…Please check the internet…), and it was heated.  Soon the police arrived from all the different authorities.  A judge was there, and an attorney for Juancho (who by the way wasn’t there), but not for us…(not that we needed one…).  After about 2 to 3 hours, all the authorities gone, the tents brought up to new locations (still in front of the Sand Bar and blocking the view to the water and the arch), everyone started to depart…no arrests, no one hurt, and really not much accomplished…  Juancho came by Thursday morning to say how much he appreciated all of our “help” and that apparently there will be a court hearing this next Thursday.  Well we will miss all of that, as we will be continuing our tour of the Baja as we head north